Swissness and Fashion

How a heritage fashion brand has been representing Switzerland in design and advertising

By USI Università della Svizzera italiana

By Charlotte Stachel, in collaboration with Lorenzo Cantoni (both from USI) and with support from Rebekka Gerber (Bally Historical Archive)

Bally postcard from Interlaken, Switzerland (1907) by UnknownUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

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This is how Switzerland is commonly known: postcard-perfect.

Crystal-clear lakes...

... majestic mountains...

... and prospering shoe factories!

Excuse me?

The Swiss textile industry is world-famous, such as St. Gallen embroidery. But are there also typical Swiss shoes?

Bally window display in Vienna, Austria (1958) by UnknownUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

Swiss heritage

In this story, you will discover various ways the fashion brand Bally has expressed its Swiss origins in design and advertising. They will be presented not in chronological order but theme-wise, from the most explicit references to the less direct ones.

Bally window display in French-speaking Switzerland (1956) by UnknownUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

From Switzerland to the world

At around 1900, Bally was one of the largest shoe companies in the world. From early on, the company was export-oriented and distributed its products around the globe. For a long time, it was clear to customers that Bally was a Swiss shoe, and a Swiss shoe meant a Bally shoe.

Bally logo "Bally Bootmaker Made in Switzerland" (1965) by UnknownUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

“Made in”-label

Bally was founded in 1851, but it wasn’t until 1989 that the company had a uniform brand identity. The lack of corporate design and broad product range led to Bally shoes featuring many different logos. However, references to Switzerland were made from the start.

Bally logo "Bally of Switzerland", Unknown, 1963, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally logo "Made in Switzerland", Unknown, 1970s, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally sole stamp logo "Swiss product", Unknown, ca. 1920, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally logo "Imported from Switzerland", Unknown, ca. 1955, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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The label “Made in Switzerland/Importé de Suisse” clearly indicated that the shoe was manufactured in one of Bally’s many Swiss factories. “Bally of Switzerland,” on the other hand, implied that the product might have been manufactured in another (neighbouring) country but in line with Swiss design and quality standards.

Bally poster "Buy the leading Swiss shoe" (1930s) by UnknownUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

A white cross on a red background

The Swiss flag is a very popular way to tag a Swiss product, and since 2017, it has been formally regulated which products can display it. But before these Swissness rules came into force, Bally embedded the Swiss cross and its colours in various ways.

Bally poster by Craig McDean, AW 2010, Craig McDean, 2010, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally bag "Cygnet 33", 2004, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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In the early 2000s, Bally decorated not only shoes but, above all, bags with the Swiss cross. Women's and men's models were adorned with buckles, charms, and metal details.

Fusion of the Bally "B" and the Swiss cross into the "Busy B" icon, Bally Schuhfabriken AG, 2000, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster by Sølve Sundsbø, AW 2000, Sølve Sundsbø, 2000, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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In 2003, the brand adapted its logo and created the "Busy B" icon, a fusion of the Bally B and the Swiss flag.

Bally shoebox for the 1939 National Exhibition in Zurich, Gerold Hunziker, 1939, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally après-ski boots with Swiss cantonal crests, 1939, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Against the backdrop of the Second World War, the 1939 Swiss National Exhibition in Zurich aimed to strengthen the country’s identity and unity by presenting crafts and industrial products. Bally commissioned a lithograph, which was used both as a poster and on shoe boxes, and created an après-ski shoe with Swiss cantonal crests around the collar and on the vamp.

Bally sneaker "Free", 2002, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Swiss Foreign Minister Micheline Calmy-Rey wearing the Bally "Free" sneaker, 20 May 2003, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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The “Free” sneaker from 2001 is a particularly patriotic fashion statement. On Micheline Calmy-Rey’s feet, it even conveyed a diplomatic message: the then Swiss Federal Councillor and Foreign Minister wore it when she became the first member of a foreign government to cross the demarcation line between North and South Korea in 2003.

Bally poster by Norman Jean Roy, SS 2012 (2012) by Norman Jean RoyUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

Bally’s homeland and its nature

Mountains are key to Swiss tourism. Bally also placed its logo next to Swiss landscapes as early as the late 19th century, as seen on the postcards at the beginning. In 2012, international models showcased the brand’s latest items in front of Gstaad’s alpine scenery.

Bally bag "Tula 1", 2003, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster "Intermezzo", Hans Aeschbach, 1942, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally boot with flowers, 1947, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Flowers can be purely decorative, but Bally probably adorned its products with Edelweiss and Gentian blossoms also to refer to its country of origin. These two species, which are common in the Swiss mountains, were embroidered on women’s après-ski models, especially in the 1930s and 40s. But even in the early 2000s, a modern adaptation of Edelweiss appeared on a women’s handbag.

Bally ankle boot with cow fur, 1939, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally sneaker "Animal", 1991, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Cows are an inseparable part of the rural Swiss landscape, and calf leather was and is one of the main materials for Bally shoes and bags. Shoe designs with cowhide patterns appeared both in the late 1930s and 2020s, but the “Chüelischue” (cow shoe) from 1991 stands out: created for Switzerland’s 700th anniversary, it features cows on a cattle drive on the soles and Swiss folklore symbols on the upper. In the following video, you can discover what else is hidden in this mindful design.

Bally’s “Animal” Shoe

Nicole Appenzeller from Bally explains the origin and meaning of the symbols on Bally’s “Animal”  sneakers. This is an excerpt from the film “Animals (Official Release)” by Benjamin Simmons (2018).

To learn why Bally’s "Animal" shoe gained great popularity in New Orleans (USA), watch the full film by Benjamin Simmons by clicking the following link: www.ballyanimals.com.

Bally poster "Traditional shoe" (ca. 1940) by UnknownUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

Official clothing

Shoes can be the highlight of an outfit or complete it. For Bally, the latter is mostly true. Even if they do not scream Swiss, black leather heeled shoes are integral to traditional Swiss costumes.

Photograph of Swiss hostesses at the 1970 World Exhibition in Osaka, Japan, Unknown, 1970, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Photograph of a Swiss hostess at the 1967 World Exhibition in Montreal, Canada, Unknown, 1967, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally design sketch of the hostess clothing for the 1992 World Exhibition in Seville, Spain, Unknown, 1992, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Swiss understatement was also the credo behind the designs Bally created for uniforms at different World Exhibitions. In Montreal 1967, Osaka 1970, and Seville 1992, the hostesses of the Swiss Pavilion walked on Bally soles. The company subtly showcased its national affiliation.

Sole of Bally marching military boots, 1942, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster "Shoes for work - sport - military", Unknown, 1940, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally marching military boots, 1942, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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From 1910 to the 1990s, Bally also equipped the Swiss militia army with marching, pilot, and combat boots. Especially in earlier years, these shoes were not only worn on official duty but also proved themselves as work shoes.

Bally poster "Bally for work and for Sunday" (1950) by Arthur SuterUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

Swiss lifestyle

Specific Swissness products are rare in the Bally range. Instead, Bally emphasised the purpose of its shoes and suggested activities at work and in everyday life for which they could be worn. In doing so, Bally portrayed the lifestyle of Swiss men and women over decades.

Bally poster "Through mountains and valleys with Bally", Pierre Augsburger, 1960, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster "Hiking boots", Hugo Schild, 1967, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster by Norman Jean Roy, AW 2012, Norman Jean Roy, 2012, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster skiing, Rudolf Mülli, 1947, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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The Swiss can often be found in the mountains during their free time. Whether hiking in summer or skiing in winter, Bally has offered a wide range of activities in the last century and has promoted them extensively. But at the turn of the millennium, the focus shifted from functional footwear to alternatives for leisure activities in the lowlands.

Bally poster "Everyone wears Bally" (1950) by UnknownUSI Università della Svizzera italiana

Inner values

Now, the references to Bally’s Swiss origins become more abstract, but they remain recognisable as Swiss to the trained eye.

Bally poster "Bally Mille" (German version), Pierre Augsburger, 1959, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster "Bally Mille" (French version), Pierre Augsburger, 1956, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally "Bally Mille" (Italian version), Pierre Augsburger, 1955, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Switzerland is officially a four-language country. To reflect this, Bally began printing its posters in multiple languages as early as 1910. Sometimes different languages even appeared on a single poster, and the brand did not shy away from using Swiss German (Schweizerdeutsch). Over time, ads with text became fewer; instead, the photo subject and Bally logo spoke for themselves.

Bally poster "Bally for everybody", Aage Justesen/ Heinz Bolliger, 1950, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster "Bally Arola Service", Pierre Augsburger, 1956, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster "Vasano shoes, like custom-made", Franz Breitschmid, 1963, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Early on, Bally designed its advertising posters with renowned Swiss graphic designers, such as Emil Cardinaux, Hugo Laubi, and Aldo Patocchi. Unsurprisingly, the iconic "Swiss Style" was also reflected in Bally posters in the 1950s and 60s. Later, these graphic posters were replaced by posters from international star photographers.

Letter from a Bally customer, Bally house magazine, 12 January 1960, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally shoebox "Quality, Elegance & Workmanship", Unknown, 1892-1907, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster "Every foot, by Bally, is well shod", Unknown, 1940s, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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Bally poster Ponte shank, Unknown, ca. 1964, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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No matter how ordinary Bally shoes might have looked, their inner values were all the more Swiss. With the best materials and precise construction, Bally shoes were synonymous with the highest quality. Another feature was their comfortable fit for various foot types. Additionally, the shoes often boasted new developments: an inventive spirit that Bally shares with Switzerland, known as an innovation world champion for over a decade.

Bally poster by Norman Jean Roy, SS 2012, Norman Jean Roy, 2012, From the collection of: USI Università della Svizzera italiana
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In its more than 170-year history, Bally has expressed its Swiss origins in many different ways: sometimes through more obvious references to national symbols, sometimes more subtly with the embodiment of inner Swiss values. Would you recognize a Swiss shoe if you saw one?

Credits: Story

This story was created as part of research on the use of Swissness in a heritage fashion brand conducted at USI - Università della Svizzera italiana—in collaboration with the Historical Archives of Bally Schuhfabriken AG. It was developed by Charlotte Stachel, Lorenzo Cantoni (both USI), and Rebekka Gerber (Historical Archives of Bally Schuhfabriken AG). 

Footage has been provided by the Archive of the Bally Schuhfabriken AG.

Do you have any feedback you would like to share with us? Just send an email to stachc@usi.ch. We look forward to hearing from you!

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

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