The Other Religious Heritage of the Camino

Uncover some of the most surprising and closely guarded religious heritage secrets on the various Caminos, some famous, some curious and totally obscure.

Monumental ensemble of Soutomerille (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

1. Ruins of Religious Buildings

Pilgrims will come across many abandoned or disused buildings on their path, like the San Salvador de Soutomerille which, despite its current state, upholds the beauty of Galician churches. Author Carlos Casares describes it as having "a botanical character which humanizes something that would otherwise be nothing more than a fragile collection of arranged stones without a soul."

Ruins of Santo Domingo (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

Some ruins have been reconstructed, while others have been converted into tourist attractions due to their architectural beauty and religious and historical significance. This is the case of the inspirational ruins of San Domingos at the heart of Pontevedra, part of the city's museum complex.

Parish church in GaliciaRegional Government of Galicia

2. Cemeteries

Ever since the Council of Europe recognized the European Cemeteries Route as a cultural route in 2010, there has been a growing boom in tourism at the graveyards. Cemeteries are an integral part of Galician culture and closely linked to death. Paying your respects at these locations and admiring the art that adorns them is yet another way of experiencing the Camino.

Medieval lauds in the cemetery of Adina (12th-17th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

"O simeterio da Adina (Adina Cemetery) is undoubtedly charming, with its dark olive trees brimming with old memories."

This is how Rosalía de Castro described this cemetery, which was the location of her first grave, and it was declared a Bien de Interés Cultural (Property of Cultural Interest) in 1975. Nobel laureate Camilo José Cela is also buried here. It actually houses graves from the 6th century, and is an authentic necropolis.

Monumental complex of Soutomerille (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

There are also smaller, but still absolutely breathtaking cemeteries on the Camino, such as the Castroverde cemetery in Soutomerille pictured here. It is a magical place where the tombs are slowly sinking into oblivion.

Church of San Antolin de Toques (10th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

It is natural that pilgrims will come across small cemeteries filled with flowers. They can visit beautiful graveyards in villages and cities as well, like the Santa Mariña de Dozo (Cambados), Pereiró cemetery (Vigo) or the old cemetery in Mondoñedo, now reconverted into a park, the resting place of author Álvaro Cunqueiro and Pascual Veiga, composer of the music of the Galician national anthem.

Bell tower of the church of Santa María do Azogue (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

3. Bells and Bell Towers

Nowadays, we have traditional and digital media to keep ourselves informed. But, before any of that, outside their liturgical role, bells were a way for people in a community to interact with each other. Their sound is therefore deeply rooted in popular culture with not just a religious legacy but also an immaterial one.

Church tower from the cloister, Mondoñedo Cathedral (1219)Regional Government of Galicia

Bells exist in all civilizations. They have consistently been used in Christianity to remind people about faith meetings, at least since the 5th century. And throughout the 8th century, small towers began to be constructed in churches for latching one or more bells.

Bell tower of the church of San Francisco de Betanzos (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

As the number of residents in towns and villages increased, the range where the ringing could be heard had to be expanded. The method of ringing them and the messages to be transmitted also grew more complicated over time, turning into authentic specialized languages.

Bell tower of a church in Galicia (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Half a century ago, the social and spiritual significance of the bells was the same as previous decades. Pilgrims will hear a wide range of tones when the bells are rung. In Galicia, their use is still very much widespread, and their sounds are even beginning to recover as an immaterial heritage symbol.

Let's not forget about the role of the bell ringers. These are people who, for countless centuries, have been responsible for making the bells' bronze produce particular, highly varied sounds. And, of course, those who make them: a secular role that is still alive in Caldas de Reis today.

Interior of the church of Sancti Spiritus in Melide (14th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

4. Church Organs

Another sound that symbolizes the spirituality and liturgy in churches is the sound of the organ. Galicia now has at least around a hundred organs of different sizes, styles, shapes, and states of conservation. In many cases, the rich decoration of these instruments is spectacular.

Organ of the Cathedral of Tui (11th-18th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

In Galicia, some organs have been recovered with sounds that are some of the purest and most unique across the whole Iberian Peninsular and Europe. Many more can be found on the Caminos, like this magnificent organ in Tui Cathedral.

Monastery of San Salvador de Vilanova, interior of the church of Santa María (17th Century)Regional Government of Galicia

The enormous complexity of these instruments, and their delicate and expensive upkeep, have meant that many of them have been left to deteriorate since the decline in their liturgic use and the loss of the organist profession over the last 50 years. The Xunta de Galicia is carrying out an important process of cataloging and taking measures on these organs to prevent them from disappearing altogether.

The sound of these instruments is equally spiritual and breathtaking. It makes sense that these instruments are thought to create a deeper connection with God. Now converted into unique treasures, they are a joy to both look at and listen to.

Museum of Sacred Art of Vilanova de Lourenzá: old monastic library (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

5. Museums, Archives, and Libraries

Many churches on the Camino, due to the huge affluence and exchange of wealth, property, and artistic elements, have museums, archives, libraries, etc. of great historical significance. These help preserve and spread elements of religious culture, furthering their educational goal.

Museum of Sacred Art of Vilanova de Lourenzá (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

We can find one example in the Museum of Sacred Art in the Vilanová de Lourenzá Benedictine monastery. People who visit it will discover goldsmith pieces, sculptures, paintings, furniture, clothing, and more. This monastery is also home to a monastic library with 4,000 books, some from the 16th century.

Samos Monastery Library (6th-18th Centuries)Regional Government of Galicia

These religious spaces in Galicia were not the only ones that were cult locations. The monastic libraries were unifiers of knowledge and key elements for reading culture during the Middle Ages. This one in Samos contains 25,000 volumes, including various incunabula and other documents of great historical value.

Library of the convent of San Antonio de Herbón (1396)Regional Government of Galicia

The power of the monasteries, convents, and other religious spaces was reflected in the control of their possessions, rights, rents, and more. They also acted as societal administrators for decades. The archives, like the Convent of Santo Antonio de Herbón here, became essential for securely and permanently keeping record of the sheer masses of documents.

BibliotecaThe Catedral de Santiago Foundation

The archive and library of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral is one of the main centers of Jacobean research across the world. It is made up of volumes and documents from the Middle Ages to the present day. Pilgrims can visit these magnificent spaces that recount a huge part of the history of Santiago de Compostela and Galicia.

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They can also visit the museum of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, which contains numerous pieces of great archeological and historical value in a space with over 800 years of history.

Altar in Álvaro Cunqueiro street, Mondoñedo (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

6. Other Curiosities

As well as crosses, Galicia has an abundance of small altars along its streets, like this one in Mondoñedo. The altar is a structure devoted to religious worship, on which small offerings are made. Religious devotion springs up everywhere as places of rest, prayer, and contemplation.

Fountain of Carmen in Padrón (2021)Regional Government of Galicia

Legend states that water miraculously flowed from this strange fountain, restored by Charles IV in the 18th century, when the Apostle hit the stone three times with his staff. It has two nooks. One shows the figure of the Apostle baptizing Queen Lupa. The other shows Our Lady of Sorrows, visited by pregnant women to ask for a successful birth.

Montouto Hospital, aerial view (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Chapels and small churches are scattered around Galicia. Some of these buildings are in remote and beautiful locations, such as this example built over three decades ago which keeps the spirit of hospitality alive, which at one time was embodied by the now defunct Montouto Hospital, on the Camino Primitivo.

Santiaguiño do Monte (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

Or the magical and spiritual site of Santiagüiño do Monte near Padron, one of the most important Jacobean heritage locations in Galicia. This is an archeological remnant from the Iron Age, and legend states that it is one of the holy places where the Apostle once preached.

Chapel of San Telmo (2020)Regional Government of Galicia

The sheer richness and variety of Galicia's religious heritage is difficult to grasp. Rooted in millennia-old legends and influenced by Roman traditions, this heritage and its reflection of a shared European spirituality has taken hold on the Camino.

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