In
the development of women’s local costume in Greece during the 18th
century one can discern survivals of garment forms from a period for
which we have very little relevant information. These forms were the
basis of what was to follow in the mid-19th century when, with the
Romantic Movement, local costume came to assume a fixed appearance in
Greece, Western Europe and elsewhere.
The starting point
Two types of garment form the starting point: a three-metre-long dress from Kassos and Karpathos with a fold recall the "kolpos" of the Ionic chiton and a loose, pleated dress from Crete.
Short dress. Mesta, Greece. Early 20th century
Phelonion. Crete, Greece. Late 18th century
Phelonion. Orthodox Church vestment (Late 18th century) by UnknownThe Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation "V. Papantoniou"
Phelonion. Crete, Greece. Late 18th century
The chemise
A chemise is the basic garment in every Greek woman's costume and morphologically is a continuation of the dalmatic. It was worn as an undergarment and was cut in such a way as to fascilitate the wearing of outer garments of similar cut.
Chemise. Trikeri, Greece. Early 20th century
Chemise. Trikeri, Greece. Early 20th century
Chemise. Thessaly, Greece. Early 20th century
Chemise. Attica, Greece. Early 20th century
Chemise. Stymfalia, Greece. Early 20th century
Chemise. Stymfalia, Greece. Early 20th century
Chemise. Stymfalia, Greece. Early 20th century
Chemise. Episkopi, Greece. Early 20th century
The dress
The Greek women's costumes often include a sleeved or sleeveless dress. Its length varies and it takes the name of the material from which it is made.
Local costume of Skopelos, Greece. Early 20th century
Bridal costume of Kymi, Greece. 18th century
Bridal costume of Trikeri, Greece. Early 20th century
Bridal costume of Skyros, Greece. Early 20th century
Local costume of Astypalaia, Greece. 1870
Local costume of Psara, Greece. Early 20th century
Local costume of Spetses, Greece. Early 20th century
Outer garments
The Greek woman's costumes include another type of garment, a coatdress known as "anderi", "kavadi", kaftan, "doulamas" and "sayas". The main outer garment, a sleeveless or sleeved overcoat, is the "pirpiri" and the "dzoumbes".
Bridal costume of Kastelorizo, Greece. Late 19th century
Bridal costume of Elymbos, Greece. Early 20th century
Bridal costume of Alexandreia, Greece. Early 20th century
Bridal costume of Soufli, Greece. Early 20th century
Bridal costume of Stefanoviki, Greece. Early 20th century
Bridal coat dress from Pylaia, Greece. Late 19th century
Bridal coat dress from Asvestohori, Greece. Late 19th century
Local costumes from Sifnos, Greece. Late 18th century
Urban costume of Pyrgos, Greece. Late 19th century
Urban costume of Ioannina, Greece. Mid-19th century
Urban costume of Ioannina, Greece. Mid-19th century
Wedding ensemble of Aspasia King. Athens, Greece 1830
Coat dress. Turkey. Late 19th century
Coat dress. Syria. Late 19th century
Coat dress. Turkey. Late 19th century
Jacket. Peloponnese, Greece. Mid-19th century
The Greek court dresses
Two examples of court dress, the costume introduced by Queen Amalia in 1837 and that subsequently created by Queen Olga in 1867, influenced both urban and rural costumes in Greece.
‘Amalia’ costume. Athens, Greece. Late 19th century
‘Amalia’ costume. Cyprus. Early 20th century
Costume worn by the ladies-in-waiting of Queen Olga. Athens, Greece. Mid-19th century
Festive costume from Kifissia, Greece. Early 20th century
Local costume of Corfu, Greece. Early 20th century
Text: Ioanna Papantoniou, Maria Papadopoulou, Angeliki Roumelioti
Photographer: Costas Vergas
