Sarson ka Saag: Mustard Greens from Southern Punjab

The province of Punjab (Punj meaning five, and ab meaning water in Persian) has been given its name due to the five tributaries of the Indus River flowing through it, making the land rich and perfect for agriculture.

Agriculture is the life blood of households in Southern Punjab. Mustard greens are grown in abundance during the winter.

Mustard, locally known as sarson is perhaps one of the easiest crops to grow in Pakistan and India during the winter and early spring seasons. From the mustard crop, mustard greens are harvested and used to cook sarson ka saag which was first mentioned in the book, “Acharanga Sutra”, written around the 3rd century BC, which expounded on the religion and the Jain way of life, including a list of foods that were commonly consumed in the region.

The crops are then processed into mustard seed oil and saag, which is often presented as a gift to friends and family who then use their traditional recipe passed down from generation to cook and share the delicious sarson ka saag. The word saag is interchangeably used between mustard leaves and spinach for the final product of the slow-cooked dish, which is creamy and smooth in texture.

When talking about traditional Pakistani food, sarson ka saag aur makai ki roti (mustard greens with unleavened cornmeal flatbread) is mandatory to mention. Seemingly a humble and simple fare, this particular dish has a long history behind it and is perhaps one of the most popular and revered traditional meals from Punjab. 

The magic behind this particular dish lies in its simplicity, with grandmothers and experienced saag makers vowing that the lesser ingredients involved, the better.  

Even though the process of cooking sarson ka saag and makkai ki roti is an arduous one - due to the cooking time ranging from anywhere between two to three hours - it is considered worthwhile because the end product is so delicious. 

Sarson ka saag is not just lauded for its taste, it is also known for its health properties. Mustard leaves are considered a superfood, high in vitamin A and rich in fibre, and are primarily considered a winter staple to help ward off ailments such as the common cold. 

While mustard greens are known for their strong, peppery and bitter flavour, its combination with spinach, fresh cilantro, fenugreek, fresh green chillies, ginger and a topping of either fresh makhan (organic butter) or ghee (clarified butter), along with the cooking process that converts the simple greens into a smooth textured, comforting, filling and delicious meal.