Rediscovering the Origins of Biryani

Many theories exist regarding the origins of 'Biryani'. Legend has it that its conception dates back to the Mughal Empire, where royal chefs devised a one-dish rice and meat recipe to feed hungry soldiers in the barracks. Others suggest that a similar combination of rice and meat was found as far back as 2 AD in what is now present-day Tamil Nadu, where a dish made with clarified butter, rice, beef and various spices such as bay leaves and black pepper was served as a hearty and filling meal for warriors.

This love for biryani soon caught on in the surrounding fiefdoms, and it was in the kingdoms of Awadh and Hyderabad that the methods of preparing biryani were perfected. While traditionally biryani was cooked in an earthen pot over charcoal, Lucknowi biryani is cooked in a copper vessel and the main star of the Hyderabadi biryani is saffron.

In modern-day cooking, hot coals are less of a necessity and more of a novelty. From the army barracks of Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan to present-day Pakistan, the process of cooking biryani has diversified. The protein aspect of the biryani has been adapted according to regional availability and palate preferences. Coastal areas can use prawns or fish, whereas vegetarians prefer using an array of vegetables, lentils and legumes. Biryani purists, however, tend to be vocal about their preference for the inclusion of red meat in any authentic biryani preparation.

With rice being one of the main components of a biryani, choosing the type of rice is an important factor which contributes to the taste and texture of the final product. The most preferred type is basmati, a long grained and slender rice which fluffs up nicely and doesn't stick together when cooked.

A regional take on the classic biryani, the Bombay Biryani has inherited its name from present-day Mumbai. Striking a harmonious balance between sweet, sour and spicy, this variant gets its unique flavor from the use of dried plums and fried potatoes.

The flavourful Memoni Biryani hails from Sindh and Gujarat, the heartlands of the Memon community. Mutton marinated in a spicy yogurt curry with less food coloring is what sets this version apart from the rest, allowing natural flavors to take the center stage.

The Bohra community is a sect within the Ismā'īlī branch of Shia Islam. They believe in a balance of flavors and combining them in a way that allows diners to have a pleasurable experience, which is why the Bohri Biryani is a milder, smokier version of the regular, spicy biryani. The main differences are: the meat used in the biryani is given a smoky flavor which is infused by smoking the meat with charcoal, and it is cooked for a longer time over low heat - for at least two hours. The extra tomatoes and fried onions also add an extra texture and flavor to the final dish.

Hyderabadi Biryani is heavily influenced by a strong blend of South Indian flavors and spices, with raw meat or chicken marinated in a spicy yogurt base, which is then slow cooked with the rice, allowing all the flavors to seep into each grain, resulting in its piquant flavor.

Lucknowi Biryani (and its regional offshoot of the Kolkata Biryani which contains potatoes) is a milder, yet flavorful rendition of a biryani, with the cooking method for this particular biryani being developed in the city of Lucknow. The meat is cooked in a yogurt and milk-based stock which is then combined with partially cooked basmati rice, topped with aromatic essences and saffron, and cooked over a low flame until it is ready to be served.

The biryani is a communal meal, meant to be shared with neighbors, devoured at lavish dinners, and even served during times of grief and loss. Depending on the geographical location and taste preferences, biryani can be made with beef, mutton, chicken fish, prawns and even vegetables and lentils. Each variant has the fragrant rice as its basic foundation, upon which varying layers of flavors are added to combine with the rice.

Karachi is the largest metropolitan port city of Pakistan and home to the famous Sindhi Biryani, which is perhaps the most beloved of all. Anyone who has sampled it with its concoction of fragrant rice, rich meat and tender potatoes flavored with fresh mint, star anise, cinnamon, dried plums and nutmeg can probably understand why there is no comparison to it. With time, chicken has also become an acceptable protein, but traditionalists will argue it cannot compare to a meat biryani.

It started off as a small shop a few decades ago. The smell of fragrant rice, chicken and potatoes mixed with a concoction of spices waft through the air and tempt people passing by to have a taste.

Their process of mixing the chicken, potatoes and masala with the rice with quick flicks of the wrist holding a rice serving spoon also turned into a show, with the servers flipping the chicken and potatoes from the bottom of a layer of white rice to the top, and mixing the white rice into the thick gravy covering a third of the huge pot.

Due to the rice being freshly mixed with the spicy gravy, the final product isn’t very spicy, but can be adjusted and made spicier by asking for double masala and the rice grains remain separated and long - the hallmark of a good biryani.