A picnic at the milpa

Nixtamal, tortilla and the antojitos that accompany it

Razas de maíz (2019-08-08) by Xochiquetzal FonsecaConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

Diversity of corn in Mexico

Mexico is the center of origin of corn, the basis of Mexican culture and food throughout its history. Currently there are more than 60 different species used in various stews and snacks that show its richness and diversity. 

Mazorca de maíz (2020-07-07) by Ronald DueñasConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

This richness and diversity is typical of its origin. This marvelous grain did not evolve without the hand of man; its kernels grow enclosed in the leaves of a cob, prevented from pollinating and spreading.

Maíz de colores en mazorcaConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

However, thanks to the ingenuity of the first farmers over 10,000 years ago, maize (the name given by the Spanish) evolved at some point from Teocintle  (Teocinte) to what we know today.

Milpa en Tilantongo, Oaxaca (2020-03-04) by Paúl RogéConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

Corn continues to be improved by the skill of farmers through the selection and exchange of seeds.

Agricultor en su milpa by Eloise PhippsConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

The Milpa

The milpa is a form of polyculture in which different products coexist that can constitute a complete diet for human beings. In addition to corn, beans, squash and chili, each region grows a wide variety of endemic products, as in the case of Yucatán, where they also grow ibes and even watermelons.

Cocinera tradicional Rosario Santa FeConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

Nixtamalization

In traditional Mexican cooking, various forms of corn are used: cooked, popped, fermented (to make drinks), dried and many others. In all cases, the corn should be nixtamalized.

Maíz nixtamalizado (2020-04-29) by Secretaría de Turismo del Estado de MichoacánConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

Nixtamalization is an ancient process through which masa is obtained, mainly to make tortillas. It consists of putting the corn in water with lime over a flame. It is later ground in a three-legged basalt stone called a metate.

Mujer al metate (2018-05-02)Conservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

Today automatic mills are used that perform the entire task. Nixtamalization improves the quality of the nutrients of the corn and makes it easier to digest.

Tortilla de maíz impresa (2017-08-01) by Ana Gabriela de la Rosa AvitiaConservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture

Nixtamalized corn is used to make a wide variety of foods, such as tortillas (which are used to make quesadillas, enchiladas, chilaquiles and tacos), gorditas, chalupas, tostadas, tamales, atoles, and much more.

The milpa diet is a tasty and healthy. In Mexico, the paradox is that while 28 million people suffer from food shortages, 48 million are overweight and obese. An alternative to this reality is our native diet, the milpa diet.

Siembra en milpa de Xochimilco, Ana Gabriela de la Rosa Avitia, 2019-10-18, From the collection of: Conservatory of the Mexican Gastronomic Culture
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Credits: Story

TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS. Marcela Briz Garizurieta<br>PUBLISHING. Ana Gabriela de la Rosa Avitia

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