Founded by the Hospitaliers in the 12th century, this commandery is an exceptional testimony to life in this little-known religious community in France. The chapel is the jewel in the crown, with paintings from the 13th and 14th centuries. Now owned by two passionate Parisian designers, it hosts events that bring together local residents and personalities from all walks of life.
A commandery of hospitaliers in Creuse
The Commandery of Hospitaliers of Saint-Jean of Jérusalem of Lavaufranche is an almost unique example in France of the history and importance of this religious and military order. The village of Lavaufranche was created around the commandery. Its name testifies to the tax exemptions granted by the Hospitaliers to its inhabitants.
Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
In 1187, the Templars and the Hospitaliers were expelled from the Holy Land and came back to the West.
The territory was divided into seven zones called langues. Lavaufranche, founded around 1180, belonged to the Auvergne langue.
Vue aérienne de la Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
Like the Knights Templar, the Hospitaliers formed a network throughout the territory. Their continual mission was to protect pilgrims and they accompanied them from commandery to commandery on the roads to Rome or Santiago de Compostela, in particular. This is how they gained part of their income.
La commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
In addition to the restoration work necessary for their survival, the new owners intend to breathe new life into these buildings. Owners of a design company in Paris, they regularly take their clients to the commandery to get back to basics and work out their long-term plans.
Grange de de la Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
The commandery is also an agricultural center, with several common areas divided into barns, workshops, pigsties, stables, and cowsheds.
Their land and vineyards and their fields and mills also provide them with resources.
Tour araséeFondation du patrimoine
The domain used to have a round dovecote (a structure to house pigeons or doves), which has now been destroyed.
Intérieur de la chapelle de la Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
The most spectacular building of the commandery is its chapel, which is decorated with superb frescoes. These were completed at the end of the 13th or beginning of the 14th century, under the supervision of Jean Grivel.
Ironically, it was the transformation of the chapel into an agricultural barn during the French Revolution that resulted in these works being preserved. In 1793, the building was split into two levels, a floor was laid and transverse beams were sawn. The walls were whitewashed.
The paintings were rediscovered in 1958 but were only completely uncovered in 1977, when the mid-floor was removed.
This operation revealed splendid scenes depicting the life of Saint John the Baptist, to whom the chapel is dedicated.
Enfeu de la chapelle de la Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
On the north wall of the church, an enfeu (tomb dug in to a wall), was also discovered. This is where Jean Grivel, who undertook the restoration and expansion of the site, is buried.
A recumbent marble statue, probably destroyed during the French Revolution, was found underneath the Gothic-style architrave.
On the back wall there are fragments of a painting which depicts Jean Grisel praying on the left, with Saint John the Baptist and the Virgin and Child on the right.
The Grivel family coat of arms is in the center, topped with an epitaph. The whole work was smashed with a hammer during the revolution.
Saving the chapel
The work undertaken to reveal the frescoes weakened the structure of the chapel. Metal posts were put in as an emergency measure but the chapel remained in that state until Antoine Fenoglio and Frédéric Lecourt acquired the estate in 2018. They undertook structural renovations, with support from the Fondation du Patrimoine (Cultural Heritage Foundation).
Nouvelle charpente de la chapelle de la Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
Work on the chapel began in the summer of 2020 and resulted in the uncovering of a beautiful vault in the shape of an upturned ship's hull.
Nouvelle charpente de la Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
A tiled roof was also uncovered.
New life for the commandery
In addition to the restoration work necessary for their survival, the new owners intend to breathe new life into these buildings. Owners of a design company in Paris, they regularly take their clients to the Commanderie to get back to basics and work out their long-term plans.
Vue aérienne de la Commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
A festival, called the Seismic Banquet, is also held here. It enables inhabitants, craftsmen, local producers, and personalities from various spheres to come together for manual, artistic, and philosophical workshops and also to exchange ideas around the table!
La commanderie de LavaufrancheFondation du patrimoine
Video interview with Frédéric Lecourt, owner of the Commanderie de Lavaufranche.
Many thanks to Frédéric Lecourt and Diana Prak of Sismodesign for their valuable help in producing this content.
Thanks also to Julia from the Tourist Office of Creuse-Confluence
To support the Fondation du Patrimoine (Cultural Heritage Foundation) in restoring the commandery, please click on this link: https://www.fondation-patrimoine.org/les-projets/la-commanderie-de-lavaufranche
