Navarrenx, the First Bastioned City in France

Théâtre du bastion des ÉchosFondation du patrimoine

An eventful military history 

Located on the border of Navarre, in the Kingdom of France and Spain, Navarrenx erected its ramparts during the 16th century, in an attempt to protect its independence. It finally became part of the Kingdom of France and its architecture still bears witness to its strategic position.

Maisons de la Place d'ArmesFondation du patrimoine

A strategic location

Located near a ford on the Gave of Oloron river, the site of Navarrenx has been inhabited since the earliest centuries AD. From the 11th century, the city came under the jurisdiction of the Viscounty of Bearn, while land on the opposite bank of the Gave came under the Viscounty of Soule. It also became an important crossing point for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela. Navarrenx became a bastide town in 1316 and these architectural characteristics are still preserved today.

Plan de Navarrenx en boisFondation du patrimoine

Although Béarn was not involved in the Hundred Years' War, it experienced violent troubles during the 16th century, when its princes became Kings of Navarre.
The weakened kingdom was coveted by the Spanish crown, which ravaged the region on several occasions.

It was under these circumstances that Henri II of Albret decided to fortify Navarrenx, using techniques that had been brought back from Italy following the wars led by François I.
This wall, built between 1542 and 1549, made Navarrenx the first bastioned city in France!

Maison dite de Jeanne d'AlbretFondation du patrimoine

Jeanne d'Albret, queen of Navarre, daughter of Henri II and mother of Henri III of Navarre, the future Henri IV of France, would have, according to tradition, resided in this stone house.
Although its mullioned windows are testament to a Renaissance building, nothing really shows that there was a passage within the walls, since the Kings of Navarre had a house in the center of the bastide.

Fortifications de Navarrenx et porte Saint AntoineFondation du patrimoine

New and efficient fortifications

The defensive structures of Navarrenx were of such high quality that when Vauban came to inspect them in 1685, he had nothing to add! To the south of the citadel, there is a bridge over the Gave and the Saint-Antoine gate, which gives access to the city. These are protected by the half-bastion of the Bell.

Poudrière et toits de NavrrenxFondation du patrimoine

It was on this bastion that the powder magazine was built, in 1580. The gunpowder, like the weapons, had previously been stored in the aisles of the Saint-Germain church, which was turned into a Protestant temple in 1555.

Bastion des Contre-MinesFondation du patrimoine

The Contres-mines Bastion was the most elaborate of all the bastions in the city. Underground tunnels were dug there, to provide internal access around the bastion and to listen if the enemy was undermining the surrounding wall: hence the name of Contres-mines (Counter-mines).

Muraille NordFondation du patrimoine

The northern walls of the city face a vast bank sloping down from the fort.
Besieged in 1569, during the Wars of Religion, the Protestant bastide defied the Catholics. It was the only siege Navarrenx has ever experienced.

Arsenal de NavarrenxFondation du patrimoine

From the Kingdom of Navarre to the Kingdom of France

With the accession of Henri IV to the French throne, Navarre became part of France. But it was only under the reign of Louis XIII that the Protestant region of Navarre became fully integrated into the Kingdom and was brought back into the fold of the Catholic Church. Navarrenx was transformed into a city of garrisons to protect the border with Spain. This Arsenal building is the symbol of this transition.

Arsenal de NavarrenxFondation du patrimoine

Built in 1680 on the site of the House of the Kings of Navarre, which had fallen into ruin, it provided the King of France's troops with more than 800 sqm of space to store their equipment and ammunition.

The weapons were transported there from the Saint-Germain church, which then fully regained its original function.

At that time, the citadel was governed by Paul de Batz, elder brother of the famous d'Artagnan, musketeer of the King and hero of Alexandre Dumas.

Caserne Saint-AntoineFondation du patrimoine

Navarrenx went from being a commercial crossroads to a mainly garrison town, as evidenced by the Saint-Antoine barracks, which were built between 1658 and 1824.
They housed 344 soldiers, but the bastide could hold up to 2,000 in times of trouble. These soldiers were thus housed there together with the inhabitants.

Fontaine MilitaireFondation du patrimoine

The bastide was supplied with water from a spring which came up in the heart of the city.
Called the Military Fountain, it produces 450 gallons (1,700 l) of water per hour in the summer. The origin of its source is unknown, even today, which has meant it has never been possible for it to be poisoned during conflicts.

Blocked in the middle of the 20th century to avoid typhoid epidemics, it was finally re-opened in 1989.
Its unusual griffin adornments have been re-installed. The most imposing would be, according to local tradition, a portrait of Joan of Albret ...

Théâtre du bastion des ÉchosFondation du patrimoine

A heritage to be preserved

Many other works showcasing the city's military history have been undertaken since the mid-20th century. Another example is this garden theater, built within the aptly-named Echoes Bastion. It was completely cleared by volunteers. It originally owes its name to the echoes that were produced by the cries coming through the holes in its walls during the 19th century.

Porte Saint-Antoine de NavarrenxFondation du patrimoine

The Saint-Antoine gate has also been restored with support from the Fondation du Patrimoine (Cultural Heritage Foundation).

Arsenal de NavarrenxFondation du patrimoine

The Arsenal is the latest example of this restorative work. Threatened with collapse since the early 2010s, it was chosen as one of the Mission Patrimoine's (Cultural Heritage Mission's) signature projects in 2018 and was restored in 2019.

Navarrenx parmi les plus beaux villages de FranceFondation du patrimoine

Take a look at this video of Navarrenx, which today belongs to the association of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most Beautiful Villages in France).

Credits: Story

We would like to thank the Tourist Office of Béarn des Gaves, the members of the Historic Circle of Arribère Association and the Regional Committee of Tourism in Nouvelle-Aquitaine for their valuable help in writing this content.

To support the Mission Patrimoine's projects, please click on this link: https://www.missionbern.fr/projets

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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