Dax: A Dog's Tale

Dax is France's premier spa town. Each year, it welcomes tens of thousands of visitors who come to cure their ailments with the town's mud. Its healing properties, renowned since ancient times, were first discovered by a centurion and his dog.

Vieux Pont sur l'Adour à DaxFondation du patrimoine

A legendary beginning

It was along the banks of the Adour river that the thermal origins of Dax were first established. During Roman times, a centurion stationed at this site was about to leave for the Conquest of Spain. With a heavy heart, he decided to leave his dog behind as it was suffering from severe arthritis and would have been unable to undertake the expedition.

Statue du légionnaire et de son chienFondation du patrimoine

When he returned from the expedition, he was amazed to find his dog, who had been close to death, in fine form and high spirits!

This was how the curative properties of Dax's silt were first discovered.

The Latin name for the town, Aquae Tarbellicae, refers to these remarkable properties. When translated literally, it means the water of theTarbelles, taken from the name of the Gallic people who used to live in the region.

Détail de la Fontaine Chaude (1814)Fondation du patrimoine

The town's main water source is Nèhe, named after a Celtic water goddess.
Every day, it produces 634,000 gallons of water rich in calcium sulphate, sodium chloride, and magnesium sulphate, at a temperature of 147°F.

Détail de la Fontaine Chaude (1814)Fondation du patrimoine

The first Roman thermal baths were built at the Nèhe source and the town grew up around that crucial site.

The reputation of Dax's waters was so immense that the daughter of Augustus herself, Julia Augusta, came to enjoy them.

Rempart romain de Dax (IVth century)Fondation du patrimoine

Aquae Tarbellicae was eventually shortened to Acqs, then became d'Acqs, and over the course of the centuries it evolved into Dax. The town of Dax became an important commercial crossroads between Bordeaux, Spain, and Toulouse.
In the mid-4th century, there were ramparts in the town.

Mosaïque romaine de l'église Saint-Vincent de Xaintes (2nd century)Fondation du patrimoine

This superb 6th-century mosaic, today located in the chancel of the Saint-Vincent-de-Xaintes Church, bears witness to the prosperity of the town during this period.

Cathédrale de Dax (1894)Fondation du patrimoine

So it was only natural that this should become the bishop's residence.
Notre Dame Cathedral was built at the start of the 11th century. Remodeled in the Gothic style in the 13th century, it collapsed in 1646.
The current cathedral was rebuilt at the end of the 17th century, while the façade, which remained unfinished for a long time, was built in 1894.

Façade d'une maison restaurée avec le concours de la Fondation du patrimoineFondation du patrimoine

Dax remained prosperous over the course of the centuries, and the wealth of its merchants is evidenced by the houses at its town center.

This house, with its richly decorated façade, has been restored with support from the French Cultural Heritage Foundation known as the Fondation du Patrimoine.
There is an agreement between the Fondation du Patrimoine and the town to help it preserve its urban heritage.

La Fontaine Chaude (1814)Fondation du patrimoine

The 19th century: the revival of thermal spas

Throughout the Middle Ages and into modern times, the waters of Dax have continued to attract visitors. This activity took off again in the 19th century. In 1814, a neo-Greek style fountain was built on the site of the former Roman baths.

The exceptional healing properties of Nèhe were inscribed on the pediment of the building.

Entrée de 1ère classe des Baignots (First Quarter of the XXth Century)Fondation du patrimoine

The Baignots, located outside the town ramparts, is one of the oldest bathing establishments in France.

Although the scholars of Dax may date it back to the 13th century, the first historical document attesting to its existence dates from 1568. It mentions open holes of muddy water.

Fronton de l'Ancien Hôtel des Baignots (1894) by Edmond RicardFondation du patrimoine

The first building was constructed here in 1724, but its success really took off during the Second Empire, with the arrival—in 1854—of the direct train from Paris.
The Hôtel desBaignots was modernized between 1888 and 1901.
The pediment of the building, still standing today, displays the date 1894.

Salle de douche des Baignots (First Quarter of the XXth Century)Fondation du patrimoine

The treatments given in these establishments have moved with the times, and now thermal spa professionals provide various treatments for their visitors.

Thermal water and turpentine showers—blended from the surrounding pines—as well as the mud baths, wraps, and hydromassages are the most popular treatments.

Curistes et promeneurs autour du geyser des Baignots (First Quarter of the XXth Century)Fondation du patrimoine

The hot springs along the Adour have also been turned into an attraction. They appeal to people looking for healing treatments, but also just to onlookers, such as here in the Parc des Baignots.

Ancien Hôtel des Baignots (1724/1927) by Edmond RicardFondation du patrimoine

After having welcomed numerous celebrities over the years, including Félix Nadar, Sacha Guitry, Georges Clémenceau, and General de Gaulle, the Les Baignots hotel and baths closed their doors at the beginning of the new millenium.
Today, the building has been renovated and turned into low-cost housing.

Ancien casino et Dax-Salin Thermal (First Quarter of the XXth Century)Fondation du patrimoine

That same year, the Dax-Salin-Thermal business began running on the site of the old medieval fortress.
The first stone of this grandiose complex was laid by President Sadi Carnot.
It was destroyed in a fire in 1925.

Façade du Splendid Hôtel (1928)Fondation du patrimoine

Dax: an Art Deco town

Between the wars, Dax experienced a new period of prosperity and many Art-Deco-style buildings were built, at the request of Mayor Eugène Milliès-Lacroix.

In order to replace Dax-Salin-Thermal, the latter called on a prestigious architect of the time, André Granet, in collaboration with the local architects, Albert Pomade and Jean Prunetti, to build a luxurious hotel in the style of the time. This hotel was called the Splendid.

Détail de l'Hôtel Splendid (1929) by André Granet, Albert Pomade, Jean PrunettiFondation du patrimoine

It showcases Art Deco architecture, almost excessive in size, with its façades, roofs, reception areas, and interior staircase, all of which have been listed as historic monuments since 1991.

Réouverture de l'Hôtel Splendid (1927)Fondation du patrimoine

The Splendid hotel was completely renovated in 2018. You can learn more about this architectural gem in this video.

Extérieur de l'Atrium (c. 1928) by André Granet, Albert Pomade, Jean PrunettiFondation du patrimoine

The trio of architects who designed the Splendid hotel also created the Atrium-Casino complex, which opened in 1928.
These leisure facilities restored Dax's reputation as one of the most prestigious spa towns in France.

Intérieur de la Brasserie de l'Atrium (c. 1928) by André Granet, Albert Pomade, Jean Prunetti, Louis BarilletFondation du patrimoine

Once again, the Art Deco style was in the spotlight, both in the former casino, which is now a restaurant, and in the auditorium.
It opened its doors to the public in the same year as the Splendid hotel, and in 2000 was also included in France's list of historic monuments known as Monuments Historiques.

Hôtel les Thermes (1993) by Jean NouvelFondation du patrimoine

At the beginning of the 1990s, the town decided to bring a new touch of modernity to its thermal heritage. To do this, it called on the services of a world-renowned architect Jean Nouvel.

The old thermal baths, too dilapidated to be renovated, were demolished in 1992, and the following year, a new hotel—Les Thermes—opened its doors.

Hôtel Les Thermes (1990/1993) by Jean NouvelFondation du patrimoine

The building's wooden shutters echo the pine forests of the Landes region, while the large, curved pergola pays subtle homage to its illustrious neighbor, the Splendid hotel, which is encircled with arches.

Le patrimoine de Dax à l'honneurFondation du patrimoine

To learn more, watch this video about the main elements of Dax's heritage that helped earn it the title of Town of Art and History (Ville d'art et d'histoire) in 2019.

Credits: Story

We would like to thank the Town of Dax for its invaluable help in creating this content.

If you would like to support the Fondation du Patrimoine in its urban restoration efforts, please follow this link.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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