Label on tunic, part of Army Full Dress suit belonging to Edward VIII (1930-40)Historic Royal Palaces
There are lots of clues that you can look for to uncover a garment's history. Here are some key questions to ask and things to look out for that may lead you to interesting discoveries.
Court mantua (1760-64)Historic Royal Palaces
What does the shape and style tell us about a garment?
The shape or style of a garment can help us to work out when it was made based on the fashions of that time. A garment’s design could give clues to how it might have been worn. Was it designed for a special occasion or for wearing every day?
Yeoman Warder uniform (2017-23) by Kashket & Partners LtdHistoric Royal Palaces
The form of a garment can tell us who may have worn an object. Is it menswear or womenswear or unisex?
Sackback dress, back (1780)Historic Royal Palaces
What do the fabric and materials reveal?
A hard-wearing fabric might indicate a uniform or garment that was made for functionality. A delicate or expensive fabric might indicate wealth, as the owner would not have needed to do manual work in it.
Embellishments and embroidery, or lack of them, might suggest the status or role of a person wearing the garment or the type of event it may have been worn to.
Label detail in hacking jacket (1970-79)Historic Royal Palaces
Is there a label and what does it say?
Dress labels were first used in 19th century as individual dress designers become more important and famous. Older garments might not have a label. The absence of a label might help to identify that a garment is older, or homemade.
Modern pieces have labels for the brand or designer, helping to identify the origin of the design. Size labels give a clue to the exclusiveness of a garment. Off-the-shelf garments have size labels, but couture pieces don't as they are made to measure for a specific client.
Label detail of shoes (1850-1900) by MelnotteHistoric Royal Palaces
Labels can also show you where something is made, telling you about the business or the shopping habits of the wearer.
Coatee, part of Court Dress suit for Japanese official (1900-40) by Densuke UyemuraHistoric Royal Palaces
Are there embroidered emblems and symbols?
Royal dress may feature emblems and symbols as part of ceremonial clothes or court dress. Some emblems have a specific meaning, dictated by the rules of court dress. Symbols and emblems that are prescribed show the rank and role of the wearer.
National emblems, such as the paulownia featured on this coatee of a Japanese court suit, are often included on ceremonial or court dress. The emblems are symbolic and have specific cultural meanings.
Coatee, part of Royal Household livery uniformHistoric Royal Palaces
Are there symbols on the buttons?
Uniforms and ceremonial garments often have the cypher or coat of arms of the reigning monarch to show the wearer is serving him or her. The symbols on the buttons might show you where a garment was made and the role and rank of the person it was made for. These are often based on rules set down in the regulations.
Buttons can help you date things, such as the buttons on this coatee. The coat of arms for Princess Charlotte Augusta of Wales and Prince Leopold indicate that this coatee was worn during their brief marriage before her sudden death due to complications in childbirth.
Dress worn by Queen Elizabeth II (c. 1936)Historic Royal Palaces
Are there any signs it has been changed or modified?
Modifications show you how clothing has been adapted as it's been used and worn. In the past, clothing was more valuable, so people would make alter and repair their clothes to make them last longer. Queen Elizabeth II’s childhood dress has been let out as she grew.
Side panel detail of dress worn by Queen Elizabeth II (c.1936)Historic Royal Palaces
Queen Elizabeth II’s childhood dress has been let out as she grew. You can see some of the changes to the seams here.
George III's waistcoat (1819)Historic Royal Palaces
Are there other signs of use?
Clothes are worn by people and the traces of wear and damage can tell you about the person and where they wore the garment. Conservators often don’t remove stains because they’re important evidence of how a garment was worn. Find out more about the signs of use on this waistcoat.
Detail of label inside Positillion jacket (1902)Historic Royal Palaces
Does the garment have any writing or marks?
Names or writing in a garment can tell you who wore it and how it was used. They can be an important way of associating a garment with a member of the royal family. Names in working garments may be an important record of the names and role of people who might be less well known.
Fashion Sketch (February 1982) by David SassoonHistoric Royal Palaces
Annotations on sketches can show choice and taste of the client or person they were designed for and whether something was made or not.
Royal Company of Archers court dress uniform (c. 1894) by Jennes & CoHistoric Royal Palaces
What details will you look for? Explore the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection.
You are all set!
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