Fashion as an important symbol of the era
Throughout time, how and with what we dress has been an important element in describing and understanding the customs, criteria, and tastes of a society.
Identity representation
The way we dress represents us and conveys part of our identity. Clothes have accompanied people throughout their existence. The clothes we wear are not an isolated element, but accompany or are a product of an era and its development.
The daguerreotype and the first photographs in Lima
In 1842 the daguerreotype, one of the first systems for obtaining photos. It arrived in Lima and with it the first photography studios were born.
First photo sessions
People from Lima would flock to these locations, either by themselves or with their families, to do what we would now call a photoshoot.
[Portrait María Barberí] by Courret HermanosNational Library of Peru
The importance of photography
A photograph is a way to leave a mark in time. Through them we can learn part of the history.
The details
The subjects' poses and accessories clearly conveyed their high social and economic status.
The elegance of a hat
Hats add elegance, complementing the outfit. Sober clothes in the case of men. With accessories and decorations in the female case.
Accessories
Accessories such as gloves, rings and canes reflected the status of the sitter.
[Tapadas] by Courret HermanosNational Library of Peru
The resistance of the Lima tapada
The tapada is the clothing that women used since the viceroyalty and during the beginning of the 19th century.
The outfit, by covering most of the body and face, allowed women to remain anonymous and act in public and political spaces that were exclusive to men.
The cloak was a black silk cloth that covered the shoulders and head, leaving only one eye exposed.
The saya was a long silk skirt, of a single color, that covered from the waist to the feet.
A new way of dressing
Trade by sea with Europe led to the arrival of fine, expensive garments that were made with high-quality fabrics and incorporated decorative elements such as brocades, which provided majesty and elegance. Only the wealthiest families had access to them.
Attention to details
Decorative elements that are incorporated into costumes mainly composed of embroidered patterns, brocades, and flowers.
The industrial revolution
The industrial revolution, the rise of fashion and the changes in Lima. The industrial revolution, which occurred during the second half of the century, encouraged the development and growth of the textile industry.
The fashion houses
Fashion houses were opened in Lima, where clothes were made under the direction of French dressmakers. Lima began to produce its own clothes.
A suit for every occasion
Daily activities and social gatherings were an important part of the life of the people of Lima.
The importance of the suit
Therefore, an exclusive and appropriate suit had to accompany every occasion. Activities such as going to church, taking a walk, receiving visitors and having tea had their own outfits.
Irene Bazo and Velarde [and companions] (1904) by Courret HermanosNational Library of Peru
The role of women and men reflected in their clothing
The end of the 19th century shows us clothing marked according to gender. Female costumes reflect the status of families and the virtues of women, highlighting the role of caring for the family that they assumed at the time.
Lace, ribbons and others
The collars became high, covering the chest and neck. The sleeves grew, becoming wide on the arm and tight on the forearm.
Use of the corset as part of the female attire
High collars that cover the neckline. Detail of the use of the corset, with embroidery applications, which marks the waist and stylizes the female figure
Men's clothing is always sober, with dark colors
Men's clothing was always plain, in dark colours. Jackets had embroidery and shoulder pads. Trousers began to be worn tighter or more fitted. Accessories such as walking sticks and tall hats were incorporated as symbols of power and status.
[Portrait of Luisa Ribatto Carranza, María Luisa Grau Cabero and friend] by Courret HermanosNational Library of Peru
Clothing to express national sentiment.
The war with Chile broke out at the end of the century, and meant a time of pain for Peruvian society. Fashion and/or clothing became an element that accompanied and reflected the emotions experienced.
The mourning symbol
The colour black was used to express mourning. It was predominant in the suits and dresses of the people of Lima.
Brides in black
Weddings became a space for national mourning. Brides had lost parents, brothers or boyfriends and their wedding dresses became a means of expressing their grief at the deaths, changing from the traditional white to black.
Contrast photographs showing (on the right) the traditional white wedding dress and (on the left) a couple where the bride appears in a black suit and white veil.
A slow change in fashion in the 20th century
Women's clothing changed, moving away from corsets and suits that covered most of the body to shorter garments that allowed greater freedom.
Important changes
Mainly influenced by the exchange with Europe, fashion allowed the Lima upper class to reflect their status and power and leave their mark through photography.
BNP. (2021). 19th century fashion. National Library of Peru.
TVPeru. (2022, April 18). It happened in Peru: Fashion in the 19th century (04/17/2022) | TVPerú [Video]. Youtube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GGD_SDF0AUU
Escribano, P. Black and white brides in 19th century Lima: mourning or fashion? (04/22/2019). The Republic. https://larepublica.pe/tendencias/316226-las-novias-de-blanco-y-negro-en-la-lima-del-siglo-xix-luto-o-moda/
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