In the 17th century, the town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz—Donibane-Lohitzun in Basque—began to flourish at the end of France's war against the Spanish kingdom. Peace in the Pyrenees was cemented with the marriage of Louis XIV to a Spanish princess: Maria Theresa of Austria. The royal wedding was held at the Saint-Jean-Baptiste church on June 9, 1660. Let's retrace our steps through this pirate town in the Basque Country's golden age.
Maison de Louis XIVFondation du patrimoine
A royal marriage in the Basque Country
In the 16th and early 17th centuries, the area around Saint-Jean-de-Luz was the site of numerous skirmishes between Spanish and French troops. The town was looted and burned several times. The conflict died down in the middle of the 17th century, allowing Saint-Jean-de-Luz to develop, most notably thanks to the power of ship owners. It was at the residence of one of these ship owners—Joannis Lohobiague—that Louis XIV stayed while planning his wedding.
Before the wedding, Louis XIV and Philip IV had to meet on Île des Faisans (Pheasant Island), in the middle of the Bidasoa River, which separated the two countries. It was also on this island that Princess Maria Theresa symbolically passed from one kingdom to another, two days before the ceremony.
These extensive wedding preparations took time and the Sun King spent 40 days at the Lohobiague residence throughout May and June of 1660.
Salon de la maison de Louis XIVFondation du patrimoine
During these six weeks, the lives of the king and the court continued to be guided by etiquette. Affairs of the kingdom were managed from Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
The Ministerial Council met regularly at the Lohobiague residence.
Couvents des Récollets de Saint-Jean-de-LuzFondation du patrimoine
Every morning, the king and his entourage went by boat to the Récollets convent, which was located on an island between Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Ciboure.
The well at the center of the convent grounds was donated by Mazarin in 1662.
Maison de l'Infante à Saint-Jean-de-LuzFondation du patrimoine
Princess Maria Theresa of Austria came to Saint-Jean-de-Luz on June 7, 1660. She settled in the Johanoenea residence, which up until then, had been occupied by Anne of Austria, mother of Louis XIV and aunt to the Princess.
Clocher de l'église Saint-Jean-Baptiste à Saint-Jean-de-LuzFondation du patrimoine
The marriage finally took place on June 9, 1660, in Saint-Jean-Baptiste church in Saint-Jean-de-Luz. The ceremony lasted three hours and was presided over by Monseigneur d'Olce, Bishop of Bayonne.
Porte murée de l'église Saint-Baptiste à Saint-Jean-de-LuzFondation du patrimoine
According to folklore, the door through which the royal couple passed was sealed afterwards so that nobody else could use it after them.
In reality, the door was bricked up during building work that was carried out to extend the church.
Chambre de Louis XIVFondation du patrimoine
The royal wedding has long played a central role in the history and memories of the town, as can be seen from this bedroom where the Sun King would have slept during his time in the Basque Country.
The Lohobiague-Enea residence in which it is found is better known today as the Maison Louis XIV.
Pièces de largesse pour célébrer le mariage de Louis XIV et Marie-Thérèse d'AutricheFondation du patrimoine
The Leremboure family, descendants of the Lohobiague family, are still the owners today. Many objects from the time have therefore been preserved, such as this embossed coin, which was generously distributed to the public in celebration of the marriage.
A town on the up in the 17th century
Following the signing of the Treaty of the Pyrenees, sealed by the royal marriage, the town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz prospered very quickly. As the port had a good strategic position, ship owners became wealthy in a short space of time. This prosperity can be seen in the architecture of the houses they had built. Each family wanted to show off their might by building a tower, which was also used to watch ships returning to port.
Gravure du port de Saint-Jean-de-Luz au XVIIe siècleFondation du patrimoine
This legacy of the 17th century is a testament to the intense commercial activity of the port, which was based around trading in addition to fishing.
Many pirates made Saint-Jean-de-Luz their home port. This earned the Basque town the nickname Nest of Vipers, a term coined by the English.
Port de Saint-Jean-de-Luz et Maison de l'InfanteFondation du patrimoine
The residence of the Johanoenea family, known today as the Maison de l'Infante, is one of the oldest in the port. It was built in 1640, three years before the Lohobiague residence.
Numerous others were built in the town over the years.
Maisons d'armateurs du XVIIe siècleFondation du patrimoine
These residences of two 17th and 18th century ship owners bear witness to the evolution of the town's architectural style.
On the left, Villa Alexandrenia retains traditional Basque architecture, while on the right, the Maison des Trois Canons, with its stone façade, is typical of the classical style.
Port de Saint-Jean-de-Luz et CiboureFondation du patrimoine
In Ciboure, a neighboring town, there is another residence with architecture that denotes the traditional Basque style.
Inspired by Dutch buildings, it is a testament to the commercial links with Northern Europe that existed at the time.
This residence, built in the 1630s by a ship owner named Esteban d'Etcheto, hosted Mazarin when the French court came to stay in 1660.
A little more than two centuries later, the famous composer Maurice Ravel was born here.
Chœur de l'église Saint-Jean-BaptisteFondation du patrimoine
Saint-Jean-Baptiste church, where Louis XIV and Maria Theresa were married, also benefited from the increased wealth of the town's inhabitants.
It had been undergoing building work at the time of the wedding, so temporary façades were specially created for the occasion.
The grandiose baroque altarpiece was completed in 1669.
Retable de l'église Saint-Jean-BaptisteFondation du patrimoine
Composed of 20 statues, it is an inspirational monument for worshippers.
The first level features saints that lived among the people and to whom worshippers address their simple, everyday prayers. On the second level are the intercessors, suspended between heaven and earth. The highest level of the altarpiece symbolizes the heavens.
Nef de l'église Saint-Jean-BaptisteFondation du patrimoine
The nave of the church has a superb vault in the shape of an inverted ship's hull.
Its galleries are typical of Basque Country traditions. Men are seated here, while the women, who were more active in the service, are seated in the nave.
The splendid 18th century organ case houses an organ that was last restored in the 1980s.
In order to improve how it plays and prevent its deterioration, restoration work is now necessary. This project is supported by the Fondation du Patrimoine (Cultural Heritage Foundation).
Cap Sud Ouest Saint Jean de LuzFondation du patrimoine
Admire the splendor of Saint-Jean-de-Luz and its sheltered bay in this video.
We would like to thank Cédric Touzaa from the local administrative council (Syndicat de la Baie de Saint-Jean-de-Luz et Ciboure), Henri Leremboure—owner of the Maison Louis XIV—and everyone at the tourism board for the Basque Country (Pays Basque Tourisme) and the tourism committee for the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region (Tourisme et du Comité Régional de Tourisme de Nouvelle-Aquitaine) for their invaluable help in putting this content together.
To support the Fondation du Patrimoine's project to restore the organ in Saint-Jean-Baptiste church in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, please click on this link: https://www.fondation-patrimoine.org/les-projets/orgue-de-tribune-de-l-eglise-saint-jean-baptiste-saint-jean-de-luz
