The Bikaneri pride - Pankhi Haar

A fan-shaped necklace that evolved during Mughal reign

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

AN INTRODUCTION TO FAMILY JEWELS

‘Family Jewels: Indian Adornment Revealed’ is an effort to impart knowledge on the distinction of India’s precious jewellery, recognising many of its roots including tribal, agrarian, trade-based or royal in nature.

Pankhi Haar - A Video IntroductionIndian Family Jewels

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

The Pankhi haar necklace

A necklace in which multiple pankhi (fan) shaped pendants are hung, the Pankhi Haar is a sophisticated necklace that evolved during Mughal reign. The design inlcudes elements of nature or motifs of Sri Nath Krishna.

Pankhi Haar - The EtymologyIndian Family Jewels

Pankhi haar - Etymology

The necklace Pankhi Haar comes from the word 'Pankhi' which means a traditional hand fan and 'Haar' which means garland. Pankhi Haar is also known as Saheli Haar and Kanthala.

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

About the necklace

The pendants are engraved with precious stones and are richly enamelled on the back. In some necklaces, Sri Nath Krishna motifs appear on the pendants.

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

The enamel in a pankhi haar

The pendants are engraved with precious stones and are richly enamelled on the back.

The material

Some pendants have tiny seed pearls and beads suspended from them and the verso is ornamented with meenakari (enamel).

Pankhi Haar - The materialIndian Family Jewels

The Materials

Often made of gold, silver, rubies, pearls, emeralds, kundan and polki. Inlaying hard stones with gold and precious gemstones was a common jewellery technique from Mughal India. 

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

The Material

Some pendants have tiny seed pearls and beads suspended from them and the verso is ornamented with meenakari (enamel).

Pankhi Haar - The DesignIndian Family Jewels

The Design

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

The making

Till today the main centre for the production of luxury jewellery in Rajasthan remains in Jaipur.

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

The Origin

Emperor Akbar, who was a great patron of the arts, facilitated workshops under which many Rajput masters developed and refined unique styles, combining Hindu, Mughal and Persian influences.

Pankhi Haar - Origin and EvolutionIndian Family Jewels

The Origin

Pankhi HaarIndian Family Jewels

The Symbolism

The design often includes elements of nature, usually birds. Two parrots sitting together symbolise two female friends (saheli). The design of the ‘Pankhi’ is derived from a traditional Indian hand fan.

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