Rice cannot be avoided when talking about Niigata’s food culture. It was the majority of what was procured in Niigata by the Kitamaebune cargo ships of the Edo Period. Niigata is known as a “rich rice-producing area” because it currently ranks the top in rice production and is home to regionally branded rice, such as “Uonuma Koshihikari,” that have become household names.
Rice Made Possible Thanks to the Hard Work of Our Ancestors
Although Niigata is known for its long history of rice-making, they were not always able to make delicious rice. It was only in the 1970s that they began to make rice beloved by the masses thanks to more consistent production. Niigata became known as a “rich fertile rice field” and the high quality of their Koshihikari rice began to be acknowledged. However, this required enormous amounts of effort and repeated large-scale land improvements.
The biggest challenge that Niigata rice farmers faced was poor drainage due to their fields being a wetland. Through the Echigo Plain flow the Shinano River, the longest river in Japan, and the Agano River, one of the country’s largest rivers by volume. River water levels could increase due to rain and snow to the point where in some years rice was not harvestable due to flooding.
Kameda-go, an area which was a wetland below sea level, was so muddy that you could quickly be up to your chest in mud if you stepped into the marsh. Farmers carried out harsh farming work while moving by boat on the deep watery fields which were nicknamed "lakes not found on a map." Nearby lagoons, which were the destinations for much agricultural water drainage, often flooded back into the fields due to rainfall. To resolve this issue, they conducted large-scale land improvement projects such as constructing drainage channels directly out to the Sea of Japan, and creating large-scale pumping stations that deliver water to the Shinano and Agano Rivers. Throughout a long period of toil and struggle, they were finally able to develop the land into beautiful paddy fields which are easier to grow rice in.
Through the early Showa period (1930s-1940s), Niigata rice was regarded as low-quality and was nicknamed “rice that even birds will not eat.” Producers repeatedly made crop improvements in the hopes of making delicious and aromatic rice that can also withstand disease and insect damage. Finally in 1962, Niigata Prefecture spearheaded the initiative they called “Make the Most Delicious Rice in Japan Project” where the producers focused their efforts on a rice variety called Koshihikari. From there, many producers began the work to perfect the flavor and quality of the rice. After much trial and error, hard work, and perseverance, they were acknowledged as premium rice producers worldwide and were finally able to gain the immobile status as the top rice producers.
Rice: The Foundation of Everyday Life in Niigata
Motoyoshi Nakajima, the head chef of a long-standing restaurant called Nabejaya in Furumachi, says that the fabulousness of Koshihikari rice is found in its sweetness and its bouncy, mochi-like texture. “Typically, we serve various rice dishes that showcase the rich seafood of Niigata for each season, such as mixed rice with seabream or oysters. However, during the fall, which is the season of the new rice harvest, we simply serve plain white rice that has been cooked in an earthenware pot to showcase the flavor and mouthfeel of the freshly harvested rice. We hope our customers thoroughly enjoy the unique taste and texture of the rice as it has been grown with tender loving care.”
Ms. Yuriko Goto, the store manager of “Pikari Sanchoku Market Otomisan,” which sells various local Niigata vegetables, where you can buy various types of rice by weight from various regional locations, explains the evolution of Niigata’s rice as follows. “Although Koshi Hikari is popular in Niigata, a new variety has been recently introduced called ‘Shinnosuke,’ which is also characterized with large grain size and its fluffy, mochi-like consistency. Niigata’s rice is continuously evolving, and the standard is increasing everyday thanks to the efforts of the farmers. Here, you can buy your favorite rice at the quantity you’d like. It’s kind of fun exploring the options and finding the one that you like the best. Furthermore, the number of customers seeking brown rice has been increasing recently due to health consciousness, and also because some people feel that it’s the best when milling the rice right before cooking. For the best result, we recommend cooking the rice using the water from the same origin as the rice. I feel that when you cook the rice using the water from the same region that the rice grew in, it tastes several times better.”
The Shinano RiverCity of Gastronomy Niigata
Niigata rice is now regarded as high-quality rice but to get there, our ancestors had to diligently toil away in harsh natural conditions. This led to their philosophy that they should not waste anything. This, and ample rice production, lead to them developing various rice-based products such as Japanese sake, miso that uses rice koji, as well as Japanese confectioneries including popular souvenirs like rice crackers and Sasadango, filled mochi balls that are wrapped in bamboo leaves. To pay respects to our ancestors who worked hard to create what we have now, we should be grateful for each and every sparkling grain of rice that we get the privilege to enjoy.
Nostalgia and Onigiri (2018-05) by misato.City of Gastronomy Niigata
Pier Bandai Market: Rice Cake Blocks (2019)City of Gastronomy Niigata
Cooperation with:
Otomi-San, Niigata
Niigata City
Photo:Misa Nakagaki
Text:Orika Uchiumi
Edit: Saori Hayashida
Production: Skyrocket Corporation
