The Châtres Abbey, in Saint-Brice, has been nestled in a Charente valley since the start of the first millennium. Resplendent in the region for centuries, it suffered from the successive wars and gradually lost its prestige. Today, the abbey church is maintained by a passionate owner who patiently restores it.
A Roman abbey in Saintonge
Founded in the 11th century, the abbey Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption was first built in wood, in a valley near a small stream that fed into a pond. It was during the following century that the existing abbey church building was constructed. Like most churches of its time, this Latin cross church is oriented to the southeast, with the choir facing towards Jerusalem.
Façade occidentale de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
As is typical of churches in the Saintonge region, the Romanesque facade is decorated with arches carved in full curvatures on three levels.
The first level has three arcades, the second has five and the final one nine, all blind.
The lush, foliage-inspired decoration of the friezes and capitals is characteristic of 12th-century architecture, as is the poly-lobed arch over the portal at the church's entrance.
The foliage-inspired decoration continues on the second and third levels of the façade, to which geometric motifs are added.
Two human faces emerge unexpectedly from the foliage, on the capital of the left buttress. This type of sculpture appeared in Saintonge at the turn of the 13th century.
Nef de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
The vast, 147-foot long (45 m) nave is divided into three bays. Its sobriety contrasts with the façade.
Each bay of the nave is surmounted by a dome with pendentives supported by pointed arches. This original façade is inspired by the cathedrals of Angoulême and Périgueux.
Dessin de coupe sous clocher de l'abbaye de Châtres par Abadie (1843)Fondation du patrimoine
Paul Abadie, the diocesan architect of Angoulême, Périgueux, and Cahors in the 19th century, greatly admired the Châtres Abbey and he sketched many elements of it.
This section of the large dome, located at the crossing of the transepts, is impressive. The bell tower that used to be above it is no longer there.
Détail de restes de polychromie de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
Although the painted decorations have been affected by humidity and the passing of time, some of them can still be seen on the abbey walls. Here is an example, in the choir.
Chœur de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
The church's chevet (apse giving access behind the high altar) was destroyed by the Black Prince in the 14th century and rebuilt in the following century. This is evidenced by the gothic-inspired bay that illuminates the choir.
Façades ouest et sud de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
The eventful history of the abbey
Now lost in the Saintonge countryside, the Abbey of Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption does not give any indication of the influence it had in the Middle Ages. Before it suffered the devastation of war, however, its glory was well-known.
It was founded in the 11th century, but it was really in the 12th century that the abbey's fame grew. The monk Robert d'Abrissel, was sent from the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud to expand the Order of Saint Augustine's community of canons.
Dessin d'élévations et plans de l'abbaye de Châtres par Abadie (1843)Fondation du patrimoine
The canons benefited from the riches of local noble families, including the Lusignan family. These resources made possible the reconstruction of the church as we see it today, and also funded a cloister, a refectory, and various conventual buildings.
Vue aérienne de l'abbaye de Châtres (1995)Fondation du patrimoine
Cultivating their land with wheat and vines also brought a lot of wealth to the canons. The food they grew allowed them to feed themselves but was also a means of establishing commercial relations throughout the whole region.
This commercial and spiritual wealth made the abbey famous and it became an important regional center.
Chevet de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
This prosperity was annihilated by the Hundred Years' War, the effects of which were felt very profoundly in this region. In 1360, the Prince of Wales, Edward of Woodstock, better known as the Black Prince, ransacked the abbey.
The Romanesque choir and its axial apse disappeared and the canons abandoned the abbey for nearly a century.
In 1438, Jean d'Orléans, Count of Angoulême and brother of the poet Charles d'Orléans, built a new choir in the abbey church. The canons reinvested in the abbey but they did not regain the prosperity of the previous centuries.
Façade nord de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
As the region had maintained strong links with England and Northern Europe, the Wars of Religion were extremely virulent in Saintonge.
The conventual buildings and the northern arm of the transept were destroyed, which dealt a fatal blow to monastic life in Châtres.
Façade sud de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
During the Revolution, the Châtres Abbey was sold as national property to Léon de Jarnac de Garde Épée, who also owned a castle in Saint-Brice.
He turned the church into an earthenware factory whose chimney can still be seen here, on the south transept.
L'Abbaye de Châtres à la fin du XIXe siècleFondation du patrimoine
The earthenware and porcelain activity came to an end in 1823 and the abbey was turned into an agricultural storage building. The columns of the nave were broken off at mid-height in order to lay a floor.
At the beginning of the 20th century, Victor Ardouin-Dumazet discovered the Abbey and exclaimed, in the Voyage en France, "This masterpiece is now a cart shed, after having been a porcelain factory that enjoyed a brief moment of fame."
Nef de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
A slow revival
It was after the Second World War that people became aware of the importance of saving this unique abbey. The parents of its current owner succeeded in obtaining its classification as a historical monument in 1948. Crucially important work then began and the frame and the roof of the building were completely rebuilt.
In the early 1990's it was the turn of the gothic choir to be restored, as it was in danger of complete collapse.
Façade occidentale de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
From 2010, the management and restoration of the abbey were taken over by the current owner, Guillaume de Jarnac, who created the Association of Friends of Châtres Abbey.
Since then, restoration projects have multiplied, with particular support from the Fondation du Patrimoine (Cultural Heritage Foundation).
In 2016, the superb western façade was the first to benefit from the restoration measures as work was undertaken to protect its sculptures from water seepage.
Transept sud de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
In 2018, the south transept and its apse were in turn restored. At that point, they were in danger of collapsing due to changes in pressure caused by the levelling that had taken place over the previous centuries.
Chapelle de l'Abbé de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
The chapel that is said to be the abbot's, as well as the ruins of the north transept, benefited from conservation work in 2020.
Transept nord muré de l'abbaye de ChâtresFondation du patrimoine
Finally, in 2021, the restoration of the murals and the stained-glass window of the choir is planned, once again with support from the Fondation du Patrimoine (Cultural Heritage Foundation).
Many thanks to Guillaume de Jarnac for his time and valuable help in producing this content.
To support the restoration of the Abbey of Châtres in Saint-Brice, please click on this link : https://www.fondation-patrimoine.org/les-projets/abbaye-de-chatres
