Food From Balochistan: Love and Memory

In the coastal city of Gwadar food is prepared with love for those one cares for. As fishermen leave for days on end in the open sea, women cook foods that can travel with them.

When the fishermen set out to sea, they pack nourishing foods. Gwadari halwa is a staple for the fisher folk. Made with flour, sugar and energizing dry fruits, the green glassy halwa is a firm favorite.

The bazaars in Gwadar have many different halwa shops.

Historically the women baked bread, which was consumed at home and carried onto boats for long fishing trips.

Fish is one of the staples of the people of southern Balochistan. People eat fish three times a day in the form of fried fish, fish masala or minced fish with rice.

Fish biryani.

The Baloch are very hospitable, and when they welcome loved ones they prepare meals for them, like this goat feast called 'khaddi kebab' - a dish from northern Balochistan.

Khaddi kebab requires a 5ft deep ditch to be dug. The 12ft wide hole is filled with 80kgs worth of 'kandi' wood onto which a metal grill is placed.

On the side, the chef prepares the ingredients to be placed in the goat/lamb carcass. It is filled with parboiled rice, spices, salt, dry fruits and nuts.

The meat carcass is sewn back up with precision and then basted with olive oil. The chef then puts it through a large skewer before placing it on the grill, and seals the pit shut. Additional heat from above is also provided with lighted wood to further tenderize the meat evenly from all sides.

Sajji is a dish that is synonymous with Balochistan. During its travels to other cities, different variants of the dish have evolved, however, the original process remains the same. Meat from a whole goat (or a whole chicken) is divided into six equal parts. The chef adds a minimal amount of spice and a generous amount of salt.

After which the meat is thoroughly dressed in oil and put on skewers. A dual sided fire within a 2-meter distance is lit and the skewers are placed in the center. It takes three to four hours for the meat to be fully cooked during which time, the chef carefully manages the intensity of the fire.

Once cooked, the sajji is removed from the skewers, and can be eaten on its own, with naan bread,

or with 'kaak' bread also known as stone bread, as it is cooked around a heated stone.

These intricately produced foods are proof of the thoughtfulness of the Baloch community and the importance of these age-old recipes to them.