Each in their own way, somewhere between their working-class roots and contemporary image, taverns offer food honoring the immigrant legacy while adapting it to their own palate. Since the late 19th century, the taverns’ recipe books have included grilled meats, pasta, fish, and stews. A journey through the most immigrant aspect of Buenos Aires cuisine, replicated in many restaurants of this type, scattered throughout the country.
1. Fried squid and seafood
Accompanied by a large glass of beer, this is a classic summer dish both in the city and the summer resorts along the Atlantic coast, just like shrimp and cornalitos (silverside). From the Mediterranean to the bars of Buenos Aires.
2. Spanish omelet
The local variation on the recipe created in Spain and popularized by immigrants is made for sharing. It is differentiated by the unmistakable aroma of fried chorizo, and is preferably served slightly runny to be mopped up with bread, and elevate the anticipation of the main course.
3. Fried chicken with garlic
Adding garlic, another contribution from Spanish heritage, is a versatile method used to enhance a large variety of meats. The twist in the Buenos Aires interpretation is that chicken takes center stage, without altering the marinade, which elevates everything it comes into contact with.
On the left, a seafood casserole with all the sacraments, and the iconic Rioja-style steak. On the right, calamari and cuttlefish, the way that squid is served in Buenos Aires.
4. Beef al Marsala
A dish that combines the quality of Argentinian meat with a tradition brought by immigrants in the early 20th century, in this case Sicilians. That part of Italy produces the sweet wine known as Marsala, which adds flavor and aroma to the tender Argentinian fillets.
5. Fish a la Portuguesa
A la Portuguesa is a localism that, interestingly, has nothing to do with the origin it would appear to claim. Strictly speaking, the recipe includes peppers, potatoes, and tomatoes, just like another dish with the same name popular in the Canary Islands.
6. Seafood casserole
This Spanish dish has numerous regional variations, but was adapted in Argentina to take advantage of the supplies provided along its coast. It has become a classic tavern dish, offered by the eateries of the Basque and Galician communities.
7. Barbecue
The pleasure of meat cooked over coals is acknowledged as the most celebrated of fires, with its roasted cuts, flank steak, and offal, topped with chimichurri, and accompanied by fries or salad. The most exquisite fragrance in the city.
8. Argentinian-style paella
This favorite of Spanish cookery was adapted in Argentina, without being unfaithful to its Valencian origins. It includes squid, mussels, octopus, and shrimp, and an unmistakably Galician nostalgia.
9. Squid casserole
Another recreation of a traditional dish that taverns have interpreted in their own style. It is made with tomatoes, sweet peppers, and peas, and seasoned with paprika. Today it is a creole dish owing nothing to the Crown.
10. Desserts!
Cream of the crop is homemade crème caramel, invented in ancient Rome. In Argentina, it is served topped with caramel and cream, fit for an emperors’ banquet. Other choice delights include pancakes, cheese and quince jelly, strawberries and cream, and bread pudding.
Editing: Diego Marinelli/Text: Aníbal Mendoza
