A Land of Volcanic Diversity

A trip to look at the rugged, igneous landscape of Kirishima Kinkowan National Park, and the influence it has had on the culture of the surrounding area.

Urban area of Kagoshima prefecture and SakurajimaMinistry of Environment

Under the volcano

Sakurajima, an active volcano that is prone to frequent eruptions, is emblematic of Kagoshima Prefecture, in southern Japan. It can be somewhat surprising to see about 3,600 people living adjacent to the volcano, not to mention the 600,000 souls living nearby in urban Kagoshima.

The volcano was created by a large eruption about 30,000 years ago and has experienced 17 large-scale eruptions since. In Sakurajima, where minor eruptions occur about 400 times a year, local residents have to be mindful of the ash forecast when considering when to hang out their laundry, and children often have to walk to school wearing helmets to protect against falling pumice. 

Kirishima Kinkowan National ParkMinistry of Environment

At first glance, it may seem like a peculiar and difficult life, but people local to the area tend to see the eruptions as a blessing in disguise. We travelled to the Kirishima Kinkowan National Park to better understand local thinking about the mountain. The national park is divided into two major areas: Kirishima, in the north, which has a range of more than twenty volcanoes of varying sizes, and Kinkowan Bay, in the south, famous for the submarine caldera caused by large eruptions.  

Mudflat and SakurajimaOriginal Source: Kusunokishizenkan


Baku Hamamoto of the NPO Kusunoki Native World, which promotes environmental education and ecotourism from Kinkowan Bay, in the south, explains that "a disaster for humans can be a boon for nature."
"For example, typhoons are threatening for us, but they are very important for the development of coral and for shallow waters such as tidal flats. They stir the sea water and prevent sand from accumulating and hardening. It naturally creates an environment that fosters marine life. "

Mt. ShinmoeMinistry of Environment

A geopark of natural blessings

“We would like to encourage people to understand the idea of a ‘geopark’ - a place where volcanic and other geological or weather conditions have created a perfect environment for flora and fauna to develop, and where human beings can live off these blessings. Many animals and plants grow on the rough terrain created by the magma. "

Iou MountainMinistry of Environment

"One way that residents here benefit from volcanoes is from the delicious food and hot springs. Kagoshima used to have little in the way of flat terrain. It was an area of pyroclastic flow - the Shirasu plateau - which meant it drained quickly, and it was difficult for rice to grow. Also, the high temperature made it difficult to grow the aspergillus required or sake making. That's why people planted sweet potatoes, which grow well here, and used a special aspergillus which prefers high temperature and humidity. And so Shochu - Japanese Vodka - was born and now it's popular across the country."

"And not to forget the hot springs - most of the public baths in Kagoshima prefecture are natural hot springs and almost everyone here carries a towel in their car so that they can easily drop in to one on their way home from work! They all have their own distinctive types of water. You can feel the blessings of the earth on your skin. "

ShigetomiMinistry of Environment

Hamamoto says that the idea of manipulating nature had become commonplace in Japan since the modern Meiji era. "The trend was accelerating, and the tidal flats of Kinkowan Bay have decreased by 70% in the postwar period of high economic growth. Japanese people used to live in harmony with nature. They were animists, finding gods in everything. I think that way of thinking is in keeping with our idea of a geopark."

Chiringashima IslandMinistry of Environment

The charms of Kinkowan Bay

The Kinkowan Bay area is in the southern part of Kirishima Kinkowan National Park. It is an entrancing landscape - a wide expanse of sea, with islands of various sizes peeking up through it. Beneath the surface, there is surprising depth - 237m at its maximum, even though we are still within a bay.

DolphinsOriginal Source: Kusunokishizenkan

Hamamoto speaks fondly of this area as a "treasure box of diversity".
Let’s first consider the diversity. "The changes in topography caused by the eruption gave Kinkowan Bay a very complex and unusual shape. Some of the warm Kuroshio current flows into it, and this rare environment gives us tidal flats, algae fields, rocky shores, reef areas, deep seas corals. All in just one bay. You will see dolphins and sea turtles as well. Each creature gravitates towards its suitable environment, and there are environments for a surprisingly wide variety of creatures".

Rhododendron kiusianumMinistry of Environment

"This is also true for plants in Kagoshima Prefecture. Kagoshima is such a long prefecture that it has very different climates in the north and south, giving us a subtropical, temperate, as well as cold areas, that’s why you can find a lot of different type of plants. I think biodiversity means the abundance of wildlife connections. Instead of focusing on one element, we need to see the whole picture, how every plant and animal affects one another".

Uca lacteaOriginal Source: Kusunokishizenkan

Kinkowan bay is also a treasure box, in that new botanical or zoological discoveries are made with increasing frequency. 

"About 15 years ago, it was said that there were about 300 species of fish living in Kinkowan Bay. Since then, more than 700 have been discovered in research at Kagoshima University, and it is said that if further research is carried out in the future, it will exceed 1,000.

Especially in the deep sea, new species are being discovered with regularity. Research on crustaceans is heavily underway, but there are still many unknown smaller creatures, such as the plankton that clean the sea. That’s why I call it a treasure box in the sense that there are still unknown jewels to be found in the sea. "

Mr. Hamamoto explainingOriginal Source: Kusunokishizenkan

The interaction between man and nature

At the NPO Kusunoki Native World, where Hamamoto plays an active role as a guide, he conducts various activities to raise awareness of the entire environment. Since its establishment in 1987, when environmental science was still a nascent discipline, the organization has been searching for ways in which wildlife and humans cannot just co-exist but benefit from one another.  

The word ‘sustainable’ is now heard everywhere, but the NPO Kusunoki Native World's message has long been that humans have much to gain by working in cooperation with nature.

Birdwatching TourOriginal Source: Kusunokishizenkan

"There are many organizations in Kagoshima doing ecotourism, but we don't want it to end up as just a one-day novelty. I don't like to explain too much. I’d rather ask questions, like, “what could we do to encourage these birds to come back here again next year?” The goal is to let people think about what they can do. We also cooperate with the prefectural government to visit elementary and junior high schools or public halls to give students an opportunity to study the environment. "

Mudflat TourOriginal Source: Kusunokishizenkan

"I originally wanted to be a science teacher, which is helpful because I can suggest to the schools where some environmental learning might align with their existing curriculum guidelines. Children can learn through experience, rather than just plowing through a textbook. Born and raised in Kagoshima myself, I felt sad when my classmates left here saying, "there is nothing in Kagoshima". I want children here to grow up knowing that their homeland actually possesses some real charm".

TrekkingOriginal Source: Kusunokishizenkan

As interests in environmental protection grows, it is normal for environmentalists to put together plans that are tailored to the nature of a given location. Hamamoto also considers the human interest at work; only by incorporating this can the long-term be ensured.

Kirishima renzanMinistry of Environment

"There’s so much of interest here, but it’s quite often that the locals are not even aware of these charms. Tourists sometimes end up knowing more. I hope the national park will help to fill the gap."

SakurajimaMinistry of Environment

"Kirishima Kinkowan National Park is a park in the true sense of the word - it is a place to be frequented by people. Unless people use it and experience it, it’s very hard to start thinking about the protection of the environment. In order to build a sustainable relationship between nature and people, we have to consider economics as well as conservation. 

If we don't look at the whole ecosystem of the area - human and animal - we can't protect what we need to protect. I would be very happy if we could all pull together to find a solution. "

Credits: Story

Cooperation with: 
NPO Kusunoki Shizenkan

Text & Translation: Makiko Oji
Edit: Saori Hayashida
Production: Skyrocket Corporation

The content and titles are those at the time of the interview (2024).

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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