Nature and People Co-creating the Beauty of Ise-Shima

The stunning, intricately indented coastline, the islands of various sizes floating in the calm bay, and the Ise Jingu (Ise Grand Shrine) with its long history: Ise-Shima in Mie Prefecture is said to be one of Japan's most iconic scenic spots and is also known for being the venue for the 2016 G7 Ise-Shima Summit. 

The Ise-Shima National Park, which stretches over the Shima Peninsula, covers 60,000 hectares, and is divided into two areas: an inland area centered on the Ise Jingu and the lush kyuikirin (Ise Jingu precincts forest) stretching out behind the shrine, and a coastal area, typified by a spectacular ria coast with its complex topography and geology, and small inlets and capes. 

The Serene Forest that has Long Protected the Sacred Ise Jingu   

At the heart of the inland area of the Ise-Shima National Park is the Ise Jingu, a Shinto shrine with a history of more than 2,000 years and known as the "spiritual home of the Japanese people.”

It consists of 125 shrines and temples, including two main shrines: the Inner Shrine, dedicated to Amaterasu-omikami (the Sun Goddess), and the Outer Shrine, dedicated to Toyouke-omikami, the guardian deity of food, clothing, and shelter. Ise Jingu has been revered since ancient times as the most sacred shrine in all Japan.

Once every 20 years, Ise Jingu undergoes a ceremonial process called the Shikinen Sengu, in which the shrine buildings are rebuilt and the sacred objects they house are moved. 

It is a ritual that has been repeated for 1,300 years, one thought to be a way to pass on architectural techniques and sacred articles such as costumes and treasures to the next generation, while at the same time seeking eternity for the gods, people, and the nation through the unchanging beauty of the shrine buildings.

Each time the Shikinen Sengu takes place, more than 10,000 cypress trees (called goyouzai) are required. The kyuikirin that stretches behind the Inner Shrine was originally used as the place where this timber was cut. However, from the late Kamakura period (1185-1333) onwards, it became impossible to obtain good timber suitable for use in the shrine buildings, and so the lumber was procured from other places. 

In 1923, Ise Jingu then formulated the Jingu Forest Management Plan, which called for the systematic cultivation of a man-made forest over a period of 200 years to restore the traditions of the past. To achieve its goal of growing high-quality cypress, the shrine began to work on the conservation and cultivation of the forest through repeated planting and thinning.

Ninety years later, in 2013, cypress trees from the shrine's forest area were supplied as part of the lumber for the 62nd Shikinen Senkaku. This was the first time in about 700 years that timber from the forest had been used for rebuilding the shrine.

The vast 5,500-hectare kyuikirin (Ise Jingu precincts forest) can be roughly divided into the shin’iki (holy precincts) forest where the gods are revered and no trees are cut, and the man-made forested areas that serve to protect the quality of the waters of the Isuzu River that runs through the site and also provide lumber for rebuilding the shrine buildings.

By separating the natural forest from the artificial forest, which has been protected and thinned, a rich ecosystem has evolved in the kyuikirin, with about 850 species of plants, 2,800 species of animals such as Japanese deer, flying squirrels and raccoon dogs, 140 species of birds such as orioles and kingfishers, and a vast variety of insects found in the area. Meanwhile, the clear waters of the Isuzu River are home to many aquatic creatures, such as catfish and crabs.

Thanks to the presence of the Ise Jingu, the coexistence of such a diverse range of flora and fauna with the human population of the area has continued uninterrupted since ancient times.

In the Forests and the Sea, the Cycle of Nature Supported by Human Efforts   

The kyuikirin is also a vital part of supporting the rich sea life off the cost of the Ise Peninsula. Whenever it rains, nutrients from the forest flow into the ocean, where they support plankton and nourish a wide variety of marine life. Additionally, the unique topography of the ocean floor and the influence of the Kuroshio Current combine to make the seas of Ise-shima teem with life.

The coastal waters of the Shima Peninsula are covered with underwater forests of sea grasses that serve as habitats for marine life, including shellfish such as abalone, turban shells and oysters, as well as octopus and lobsters. Tuna, snapper, and bonito can also be found.

Thanks to the abundant sea, fishing by ama women divers has flourished. Of the approximately 1,390 ama divers in Japan today (as of 2018), about half (647) are said to work in Toba and Shima cities. 

The long history of these women free divers, said to be between 3,000 and 5,000 years, has been based on a sense of awe and gratitude toward nature. The ama emphasize the importance of living in harmony with nature and the rule of not taking more than is needed. This philosophy could be behind why Ise-Shima’s rich natural habitat has been preserved. 

The production of katsuobushi became an important industry in the region, and by the early Showa period (1926-1989), there were over 200 ibushi goya huts for drying and smoking the bonito dotted along the coast. However, due to the rise of the pearl industry and other factors, the number of these huts has decreased to about three.

The tenkazan method is one where the bonito is smoked over an open fire; there are said to be only ten huts in all of Japan that still use this method. The hut is filled with stacks of firewood placed next to the furnace, on which the bonito is placed upon to remove moisture in repeated drying cycles.

The wood of the ubame oak is used to smoke the bonito. It is sourced from thinning that takes place in local mountains; using it in this way is said to create a virtuous natural cycle between the mountains and the sea.

“If the mountains are left to grow completely wild, the balance of nutrients making it to the sea will change, affecting the creatures in these waters. So, we are doing our part in protecting that sea life while making the katsuobushi.”

The dashi (soup stock) made from Nakiri katsuobushi is clear and fragrant with a full flavor; it is a highly valued ingredient used in chakaiseki, the cuisine served before a traditional tea ceremony. Tenpaku states that the katsuobushi from Nakiri are a true treasure of Ise-Shima.  

“The flavor of dashi made from katsuobushi is engraved in the DNA of Japanese people. I feel that is my life’s calling to ensure that each and every time, the flavor passed on since long ago remains unchanged.”

It is this passion that drives people like Tenpaku to preserve the history of this miketsukuni and the traditions and culture of Ise-Shima.