Aso Volcano and Grasslands Are Sustained by People
A fascinating combination of volcanoes and grasslands, we visit Aso Kuju National Park, to learn more about how subterranean forces have shaped the culture and history of the Aso region of Japan.
Mt. Nakadake Central CraterMinistry of Environment
The land of fire
Known as the "land of fire”, Kumamoto Prefecture is in the Kyushu region, at the southern end of Japan. The volcanic Mt. Aso has long had a dominant effect on the spirituality of the local people, and the frequent eruptions of smoke from the five main mountains of the region give visitors to this volcanically-active area the impression that the earth itself is breathing.
Even though its highest altitude is a moderate 1,592m - not high by the standards of the mountains on the mainland - Aso and its surrounding peaks are known for their striking appearance.
Rhododendron kiusianumMinistry of Environment
When visiting the Aso-Kuju National Park (originally called the Aso National Park when it was created in 1934; renamed in 1986), it is hard not to be struck by the contrasts in the scenery. Adjacent to the fiery volcanoes are meadows so lush and verdant that they seem almost like velvet. The greenery is further enhanced by the numerous marshes that are the product of natural springs and steady rainfall.
Aso Caldera (Aerial photography) ©︎ASO VOLCANO MUSEUMOriginal Source: ASO VOLCANO MUSEUM
A broad caldera
Japan has many active volcanoes, so what makes the Aso-Kuju National Park special? Firstly, its caldera is one of the largest in the world. The term ‘caldera’ means the depression in the landscape created by volcanic activity, and here it is exceptionally wide; about 25km from North to South and about 18km from East to West.
Shinichiro Ikebe, the director of Aso Volcano Museum, explained that it is too big to see the whole shape from ground level.
Volcanic ash fallout ©︎ASO VOLCANO MUSEUMOriginal Source: ASO VOLCANO MUSEUM
"You need to be airborne to see the full geography of the caldera, since it’s one of the ten largest in the world. But of course, you can get some sense of the scale just by visiting. There are other calderas of this size in other prefectures, but Mt. Aso is very easy to see because the base of the caldera sticks straight out of the ground. "
Aso Fire Festival (Hifurishinji, a fire swinging ritual)Ministry of Environment
Living with the volcano
Local communities have based their livelihoods around the volcano. The rich grasslands provided a place for crop cultivation and grazing, and the magma - ever close to the surface - provides hot springs to heal tired bodies.
The Shinto ritual of Aso Hifuri shinji uses bonfires to celebrate the marriage of the gods, and this is the main feature shinji of Gozemukae held in March in hope of a good harvest. The traditional dance of Kagura is also used to express the people’s gratitude for and awe of nature.
Grazing in AsoMinistry of Environment
"Some parts of life have changed, though”, muses Ikebe.
“For example, green meadows like these used to exist all over Japan; they were often cited in old nursery rhymes. Although they’ve decreased in other places because of economic development, the grasslands still remained in Aso because they are still closely linked to local life. In ancient times people settled on this land of volcanic ash soil, but they found it was infertile. It wasn't suitable for planting fields or growing rice, they used the meadows as land for livestock to graze".
DaikanboMinistry of Environment
The ages projected onto nature
The grasslands of Aso-Kuju National Park are often referred to locally as the "millennium grasslands," but this is, in geological time, a recent development. "Many people call this place the millennium because there is a reference to Aso in the Engi-shiki, the literature from the Heian period (794 to 1185). But in reality, the grasslands have existed for more than 10,000 years, at least according to geological researchers. It is also known that people existed in Aso about 30,000 years ago. "
Aso NakadakeMinistry of Environment
Spans of time such as ten or thirty thousand years are normally beyond the human mind’s ability to comprehend, but the task becomes somewhat easier when presented with the innumerable layers of strata that are found in Aso, and volcanic eruption that express the vitality of nature.
Kikuchi GorgeMinistry of Environment
"When you see the natural splendor of Aso, I’d like you to think about the past" says Ikebe. "It will give you food for thought; in the strata here, you can actually see the history of the earth. Looking back at the past seems romantic, but here, where there are many natural disasters, it is also used for saving lives and control risk.
The Earth is 4.6 billion years old, and it is only in the past 2000 years that humans have exerted any kind of control over nature. In other words, humans have just exited alongside the natural processes of the earth. It would be great if many people could feel the need to care for nature, whilst we also employ new technology for disaster prevention.”
Mt. Rakuda Open burningMinistry of Environment
What does “nature” really mean?
Aso is now pursuing the regeneration of its grassland, and the local government has prioritized conservation. But Ikebe continues to ask how we can protect nature, in a natural way.
"Aso has a long-standing culture of controlled burning, the people of Aso did not have the preservation the grasslands as their primary goal. As result of their efforts to sustain livelihoods grazing, contributed to the maintenance of the grasslands and the diversity of life.
Komezuka Summer sceneryMinistry of Environment
"But now, our reasons for maintaining the grasslands are changing. I continuously question how we can protect nature in a way which is also sensitive to the needs of the residents. If we are to reach an answer, it’s important to consider the landscape of this area. Studying topography or geology alone will not take you anywhere.
This is exactly what I tell the children visiting our museum; we might think that our current ideas are perfect, but inevitably, new answers will be developed over time. That’s why it's important to keep asking questions, to keep wondering “why?” all the time. It would be great if Aso becomes a catalyst to think about these big-picture topics that affect the wider world.”
Hot-air Balloon Ride ©︎ASO NATURE LANDOriginal Source: ASO NATURE LAND
Connecting to the landscape
As well as increasing your awareness of these issues, Aso is a fun place to be. We nterviewed a local guide, Hideki Sakata of Aso Nature Land a community business, which started in 1998. Sakata moved from Amakusa - also in Kumamoto Prefecture - and now he told us with smile, the greatest luxury of everyday life is having a morning coffee with a view of Mount Aso.
Mazeno Valley Headwater Trekking ©︎ASO NATURE LANDOriginal Source: ASO NATURE LAND
A range of activities
Aso Nature Land is a business designed to let visitors appreciate the range of activities the area offers. The staff - a diverse group - are uniformly cheerful about what the area offers: hot-air ballooning, paragliding and yoga that take advantage of the landscape in all its seasons.
Sunset Flight Parasailing ©︎ASO NATURE LANDOriginal Source: ASO NATURE LAND
There is an extensive range of paragliding options, that give a sense of walking in the air. "The one-seater course that’s offered flies about 8 stories off the ground. The two-seater option is launched from the observation deck of Gairin mountain, at an altitude of 450 m, toward the splendor of Mt. Aso. When you look at the forest from directly above, the trees seem to have perfect symmetry. You can enjoy such extraordinary scenery as you float along like the wind".
Yoga in the Sky, Aso ©︎ASO NATURE LANDOriginal Source: ASO NATURE LAND
No matter what season you visit, there will be new discoveries in this place, with activities designed to stimulate both the mind and the body. It’s a spring tradition to see the scenery of the pitch-black grasslands sprouting fresh green after the townspeople have burned off the chaff. It’s hard not to be inspired by this spectacular, striking mountain of the South.
Cooperation with:
Aso Volcano Museum
Aso Nature Land
Text & Translation: Makiko Oji
Edit: Saori Hayashida
Production: Skyrocket Corporation
The content and titles are those at the time of the interview (2024).
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