Breakfast in Lahore: Phajjay ke Paye

In this particular case, the trotters are the cleaned hooves of goats, cows or sheep, which are considered a treat and a delight to eat as a hearty first meal of the day. While recipes vary among families and generations, the basic premise of a good paya remains the same: trotters are stewed for several hours, preferably overnight, in a soup-like, gelatinous stock with minimal spices and masalas, in order to allow the meatiness of the trotters to shine through.

Paya exhibits regional and seasonal diversity, with variations like Siri Paya featuring the addition of animal head, brain, tongue, and jaw for a distinctive flavor profile. However, Siri Paya transcends daily breakfast fare and is cherished as a winter delicacy.

A certain expertise is required to cook paye, as the cleaning of the hooves requires immense attention and concentration, along with a knowledge of how flavors should be balanced so that the stew maintains its nourishing qualities.

The hallmark of a well-prepared paya is the presence of a luscious, gelatinous texture in the stew. This delightful consistency is achieved through extended simmering of the bones, allowing their savory essence to infuse the stew and naturally thicken it. 

Paye is often enjoyed in Lahore with kulcha or naan to help scoop up the flavorful stew into one’s mouth. The popularity of the humble paye cannot be denied, especially when the older shops and food stalls have long queues of people waiting to purchase a breakfast of paye and kulcha first thing in the morning.

The grandson of Mr. Phajja (R) claims that it was his paternal grandfather who popularized the concept of cooking and enjoying animal trotters, saying that earlier they would just be discarded.

Slow-cooked overnight, this dish boasts a tantalizing flavor. Infused with garlic and gelatin derived from the bones to enrich the taste, while a secret blend of spices and herbs is used to enhance its distinct profile, setting it apart from other city renditions.

People still queue up in long lines to purchase the delicious paye from 'Phajja Siri Paye'. With the business having rapidly expanded locally in Lahore, the descendants of Mr. Phajja now plan to go international by launching their business in Dubai, where Pakistani expats can enjoy the original taste of home. All in all, paya is a regional dish which must not be missed when visiting Lahore!