The labels collection
"It's, most of all, tasty and the taste is that of old stuff that, when we see them at first sight, one by one, among other knick-knacks, we do not pay attention to them, but then, seen together, they take on a shape and a nature which gives them a singular attraction" (Vittorio Viale) After 65 years, the artefacts that the Director of Museo Civico di Torino talks about, come to light again. Eighty-four labels for personal-use products (oils, creams, soaps, perfumes), sold in 1935 by Nicola Perrone's firm, which opened shop in 1804 in via S. Massimo 12.
PERFUMES
Born in Turin during the second half of the 18th century, Nicola Perrone becomes a manufacturer in the perfumery of S.S.R.M. and opens his own parlour in Contrada S. Pelagia, door n. 2, on the ground floor, Casa Guarenne (Turin) in 1804. We read of him in a branch engraved by Arghinenti in the first years of the 19th century: "He sells lotions, precious soap bars, ancient oils, Cologne, perfumed water, essences of every kind and other objects made in the same shop at a fair price". His name is also mentioned in the Gazzetta piemontese in 1849, where he is described as "the only major manufacturer of the White Lotion", the much appreciated cream to make hair grow. There is also news of him in the “Patente del Profumiere” of July 1853.
Labels for Savon Superfin (1801/1851) by FrancePalazzo Madama
Nicola Perrone was a great manager. Lots of the labels were bought in France, then used on products made by Perrone. Images on the labels hint at something that goes beyond cosmetics, such as romance.
Labels with Napoleon I (Du Grand Homme) and his son Duc of Reichstadt (1800/1840) by FrancePalazzo Madama
Perrone also produced men cosmetics. These two labels depict two famous men of the time: Napoleon the First, called "the Great Man" and his son.
Savon Des Actrices : Madame Albert (1840/1860) by FrancePalazzo Madama
The label representing Marie Charlotte Thérèse Albert, popular french actress in the 1800s, known as Madame Albert, has been chosen as main image for the exhibition.
Born in Toulouse in 1805, she took up an important career in comedy performing mainly at Théâtre du Vaudeville, Paris.
She died in Chartres in 1860.
She was probably an inspiration for women of the time who wanted to copy her model of success and charm!
Labels for Savon Superfin (1800/1850) by FrancePalazzo Madama
In Perrone's "marketing strategy", the target audience, for most of the products, are young women searching for - as Jane Austen would put it - "a single man in possession of a good fortune, must be in want of a wife."
In the same series, there are even labels leaning toward sensuality...a delicate hint of a different pleasure
Savon du Zodiaque (1800/1850) by FrancePalazzo Madama
The Zodiac labels
The 12 signs of the zodiac provided inspiration for labels. Starting with Aries, the sign corresponding to the spring equinox, all the way to Pisces, the last
zodiac sign.
Each sign represents a constellation.
At the time the zodiac was an
instrument used by men to feel closer to the gods, sharing emotions, feelings
and passions.
That’s why the cosmetics companies embellished their
labels with such imageries, creating a deeper bond with the costumer.
FASHION IN THE EARLY 1800
Between 1830 and 1840, female fashion consisted of long dresses with large skirts, corsets and voluminous sleeves.
Particular importance was given to elaborated and extravagant hairstyles, with elegant buns and curls falling on the shoulders. Ribbons and flowers were used as decorative ornaments. These styles can be seen on the labels Perrone's chose. Perfumes adopt the flavours of the flowers, pictured on the ladies' heads.
The use of many hats with big brims decorated with feathers was still essential for a woman of the time, as we can see on the headgear of the women on the labels.
Labels for women cosmestics (1815/1830) by FrancePalazzo Madama
"Look here, I have bought this bonnet. I do not think it is very pretty; but I thought I might as well buy it as not. I shall pull it to pieces as soon as I get home, and see if I can make it up any better." Lydia Bennet, Pride and Prejudice (Jane Austen)
Huile antique [Ancient Oil] (1801/1851) by UnknownPalazzo Madama
“A lady's imagination is very rapid; it jumps from admiration to love, from love to matrimony in a moment.”
― Jane Austen, Pride and Prejudice
Natural oils and flowers
As it is today, the trend for "bio products" was all the rage. A lot of Perrone's cosmetics were made with flowers and plants well-known for their cosmetic properties.
Huile antique [Ancient Oil] (1801/1851) by UnknownPalazzo Madama
Tuberose is known as an aphrodisiac, deodorant, relaxing, sedative, and warming substance
Traditionally used for soothing and skin treatments, violet has also cleansing properties. Violet is also beloved for the delicate scent.
Labels for "Huile antique" (1815/1846) by France, Chez Sainton, Rue de l’Arbre Sec n. 33Palazzo Madama
Orange blossom is traditionally associated with weddings.
Labels for "Extraits d'Huile" (1814/1845) by FrancePalazzo Madama
The health benefits of Jasmine Essential Oil can be attributed to its properties as an antidepressant, antiseptic, aphrodisiac, antispasmodic, cicatrisant, expectorant, galactogogue, emmenagogue, parturient, sedative and uterine substance.
Garden heliotrope is used for perfumery. The scent is said to help fight fatigue.
La mostra è stata realizzata a Palazzo Madama nell'ambito della Summer School promossa in collaborazione con la Consulta per la Valorizzazione dei Beni artistici e Culturali di Torino. La mostra è a cura degli studenti Rosa Basilicata, Matteo Benetti, Amedeo Calosso, Alberto Coni Ester Cravero, Carlotta Faioni, Edoardo Giacardi, Marcello Ghigo, Erica Lonardi, Alessandro Monichino, Jacopo Odetto, Davide Recano, Alessia Robert, Giulia Stefanucci, Giulia Vallosio, Lorenzo Viberti, Carola Vigilante. (Istituto Tecnico del Turismo C.I. Giulio, Liceo Valsalice di Torino e Istituto Maria Immacolata di Pinerolo)
