Dulce de Leche, In Everything, and From Everywhere

Although the exact origins of dulce de leche (similar to caramel) are still a topic for debate, most Argentinians would tell you that it is a national product. Whether or not that is true, there is no doubt that Argentina loves dulce de leche. With an estimated annual production of 265,000 pounds (120,000 kg) and a consumption per capita of around 7 pounds (3 kg) per year, this sugary concoction is used in multiple recipes and consumed at any time of day.

Some historians believe that dulce de leche’s origin can be traced to grape syrup. This was made using an Arab technique whereby grape juice would be partially dehydrated until caramelized, turning it into a kind of syrup. The Arabs introduced sugar cane and their sweet-toothed customs to Spain, while Spaniards in turn transported them to their colonies in the Americas. Grape juice was later replaced with cow’s milk. The rest is history. 

However, one of the most well-known legends in Argentina suggests that dulce de leche could have been invented by mistake in 1829, in the home of the Argentinian leader Juan Manuel de Rosas. According to the tale, one of Rosas’ maids was distracted and left a pan of milk and sugar on the hob. It overcooked, and the mixture turned into a caramelized cream. And so Rosas’ forgetful maid was immortalized in Argentinian gastronomic history as the inventor of dulce de leche. 

Since 1995, every year on October 11, the country celebrates International Dulce de Leche Day. The initiative seeks to pay homage to the national delicacy, which has been recognized as part of Argentinian cultural, food, and gastronomic heritage.

Today, dulce de leche can be eaten on its own (by the spoonful!) or in various different dishes. It is undoubtedly the star of national confectionery, and the most popular filling for croissants and pastries; these sweet baked goods were introduced by European immigrants who settled in the region of Río de la Plata at the beginning of the 20th century.

Dulce de leche is also used as a cake filling, a principal ingredient in several desserts, and a trusty partner for sweet dishes such as crème caramel, which is very popular in Argentina.

As the custom of drinking milk became more widespread in Buenos Aires, in 1887, Don Vicente L. Casares established a dairy farm, which had a huge impact on the lifestyle in Buenos Aires. Named La Martona, by 1920, it had 30 stores in the city selling fresh milk produced in its fields in Cañuelas.

In 1902, La Martona began producing dulce de leche in an industrial capacity, following the traditional recipes of the colony. It was an immediate success and was the first company to create a dulce de leche industry with innovative organization, packing plants, and production units. The product was sold in cans and had a very carefully refined image and brand. It was even advertised in magazines and newspapers. 

Today in Argentina, there are countless industrial brands producing dulce de leche. Many of them also export the product to other countries worldwide. The booming industry around this product also led to the invention of new, more innovative versions; for example, those made from goat’s or sheep’s milk. 

The ingredients are very simple: just milk, sugar, a little baking soda, and vanilla flavoring. The most difficult aspect of the recipe is its long manufacturing process. The mixture must be cooked at a low temperature for two to three hours. It is important that the mix is not brought to the boil, and that it is constantly stirred with a spoon to prevent it from sticking or burning.