Veracruz is a beautiful amphibian that crawls from sea level and glides up to 5426 meters above it. The gods were generous with this land in which, due to the variety of climates it has, coconuts, sugar cane, the most delicious coffee in the world, chayotes, bananas, and mangoes grow...
Livestock farming is common here, and it is also the land of the founding myths of many typical dishes, among which the famous Barbacoa of Coscomatepec stands out.
Herding (2020-12-08) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
There are two possible origins to the word Barbacoa. The first one is the Mayan word Baalbak’Kaab (meat covered with soil), and the second is the Caribbean Taino word Barabicu (meat cooked on wooden scaffolding).
Regardless of the origin of this word, there is no doubt that Barbacoa is a cooking system that uses indirect heat and was invented by pre-Hispanic cultures.
Barbacoa is one of the most famous, beloved, traditional, and special dishes in Mexico. This delicacy contains in its softness and scent more than 500 years of history, as well as the exquisite mixture of two seemingly different worlds.
Maguey leaves sliced (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Preparation and curation of the meat (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Its preparation is pure joy and an art that involves improvisation, intuition, the magic of seasoning and the magic of precise moments of heat, soil and time. It also requires the generous presence of fresh, local and representative ingredients.
Elements for cooking under the ground (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The worldview of our original people is beautiful and complex.
Fire starters (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The earth is a basic element to understand this view of the universe. It is the beginning and the end of everything sacred.
It is important for the cooking of the Barbacoa because the oven is built in this place that not only allows for its special cooking, but also fills it with magic because it is cooked underground, preserving rich natural flavors and absorbing all the nutrients of the soil. The soil on which the muertos of our history rest.
The cooking process of this tasty dish is special because it is carried out without direct contact with the fire, cooked only by the heat of the hole in the ground.
Oven ready (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The consommé (or broth) comes from the juices that the meat releases as it is cooked. That is where the nutritional properties of lamb meat concentrate.
The Barbacoa’s traditional flavor comes from the oak firewood (Quercus spp) that is used to cook it. After heating the oven, the meat is placed and covered with maguey leaves.
To make a traditional Barbacoa you must choose a "good lamb," that means a lamb that is less than one year old. Their meat is soft and doesn’t have a strong flavor that would otherwise overshadow all the textures and nuances of the special taste that comes from the meat in the oven.
Final adjustments (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Just as the conjunction of the stars creates special conditions for life in the universe, the conjunction of the elements in the Barbacoa contribute to the unique experience of tasting this delicacy: earth, fire, meat, firewood, stalks... Each one provides its essence to create a unique and special flavor.
Cooking process (2020-12-08) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Every Monday, the tianguis or traditional market of Coscomatepec has people coming down from the mountains to sell and exchange their products. In this space, the ancestral tradition of bartering is still preserved. Monday becomes the special day in which locals and tourists can taste the exquisite Barbacoa.
Barbecue consommé (2020-12-10) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Gastronomía Project - Colectivo Rokunin 2020
Barbacoa, Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México.
Content and Text: Itzel Mendoza
Style Correction: Alejandra Mendoza and César Hernández
Design: Roberto González
Illustrations: Mark Quijano
Photographs: Gabriela Lavalle
Licence: CC BY-NC-ND 4.0.
Thanks to the H. Ayuntamiento de Coscomatepec, Veracruz.
