Before the sun rises (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Before the sunrise
Success is delivered before the sun comes up; at two in the morning the lights, ovens and passions of this Pueblo Mágico of Coscomatepec de Bravo, Veracruz are lit.
Starting the process (2020-12-28) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Arrangement of figures on a baking tray (2020-12-08) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Collaboration between the generations
Full families make artisan bread every day in a wood-burning oven, a tradition passed on from generation to generation.
Giving shape to the dough (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Figuradores
It is an inspired work that is carried out by teams, each one at its turn. The first to arrive at the workshop are the Figuradores, whose task is to knead the flour mixture and then, with magic and skill, give life and shape to each of the different kinds of breads.
Working the dough (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Forming pieces (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The Figuradores make puros (cigars), corbatas (ties), huesos (bones), chamucos, gallinas chinas (Chinese hens) and lizas, polvorones (shortbread cookies), alfonsos, cuernos (croissants), rosquitas de anís (anise rosettes), mordidas (bites), gusanitos de azúcar (sugar worms), alas (wings), peines (combs), bizcochos (biscuits), conchas (shells), caprichos (fancies), pambazos, tortas (type of baguettes)...
Production of a variety of sweet bread pieces (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Don Martín
The favorites of Don Martin, the figurador of hundreds of types of breads pieces every day, are the gallinas (hens).
Final touches (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Pan Dulce (sweet bread) is linked to our most intimate and familiar memories, to the flavors and aromas of the house. Who can't remember having enjoyed a chocolate-dipped bread roll at a family dinner?
Display cabinet (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The bread is flavor, memory, longing, an enchanted snippet of childhood delight.
"To look through the window of a Coscomatepec bakery is to see our ingenuity at its best"
The start of the baking in stone oven (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Wood-burning oven
The next moment in the process is the responsibility of the "master baker or Hornero." At about 9 am, with the oven ready, the Master starts baking bread; at 500°C (932°F), the bread is ready in a few minutes.
Figures waiting (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Ongoing baking process (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
When the oven reaches 500°C (932°F), the first pieces of bread are put in. These are called "de suelo" (ground) and they include the pambazo, the hojaldras (puff pastries) and the cocol. At 350°C (662°F), some other sweet and salty breads are put inside. When the temperature is between 200°C (392°F ) and 250°C (482°F) the pan de manteca (lard bread) is put in and finally at 180°C (356°F), the desserts appear such as muffins and all the pastries. It is a magical and delicious creation process that is repeated every day of the year.
Ongoing baking process (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Bread sale (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The last step, but not least, is the moment to sell the bread! Many bakers continue selling the bread in large baskets that they carry with great balanced expertise on their head.
Baskets (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The bread that is made in this Pueblo Mágico is sold throughout the region of the high mountains, countless baskets of bread reach the bakeries of Huatusco, Córdoba, Fortín and Orizaba.
Bread before being bought (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (editor), and Alejandra Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Coscomatepec has a noble tradition: on October 24 of each year the bakers make a bread in the form of a fish called "El Bobo," these are taken to the parish of Saint John the Baptist to be blessed. The "Bobos" are given away to the people and the families take them to their sick ones in the hope of a miracle.
Proyecto Gastronomía - Colectivo Rokunin 2020
Coscomatepec Bread, Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México.
Content and Text: Itzel Mendoza
Style correction: César Hernández and Alejandra Mendoza
Design: Roberto González
Illustrations: Mark Quijano
Photographs: Gabriela Lavalle y Celeste Laviani
Licence: CC BY-NC-ND 4.0.
Agradecimientos: H. Ayuntamiento de Coscomatepec, Veracruz.
