Argentinian Wine: Past, Present, and Future

Surprisingly, the first vines were planted in the hot city of Santiago del Estero. It was the Jesuits who noted the unique qualities of grapes grown in Cuyo: plentiful and hardy, they thrived in the region’s climate. 

In the late 19th century, the emergence of the railways meant that the province of Mendoza became the linchpin of this burgeoning industry, which had already spread to other Andean regions such as San Juan, Catamarca, Salta, and La Rioja.

Although the Torrontés grape boasts the distinction of being the only native variety, over time Malbec has successfully positioned itself as Argentina’s flagship grape, playing a central role in the globalization of Argentinian wine during the 1990s.

Today, Malbec is the most commonly planted grape for wine making. With almost 45,000 hectares given over to this vine, it exceeds by some distance the varieties that rank after it (Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah).

After years of primitive production and rudimentary harvesting methods, in the 19th century immigrant families from Europe arrived with new cultivation techniques and different vine varieties, permanently settling in the provinces of Cuyo.

In Cuyo, immigrants incorporated the knowledge and techniques of indigenous people, such as the Huarpes, channeling the water that flowed down from the mountains, and using it to water their plantations.

Toward the end of the 20th century, vineyards spread beyond their traditional regions in Mendoza, San Juan, La Rioja, Catamarca, Salta, Neuquén, and Río Negro. Entrepreneurial newcomers appeared on the scene, transforming the wine-growing landscape.

They made coastal wines from the Atlantic Coast, and mountain wines from Cordoba and San Luis, while Patagonia created a name for itself with wines from Chubut and La Pampa. This resulted in 215,000 hectares of land being given over to vineyards across the entire country.

Thanks to extraordinary technological advances, the building of modern wineries, and soil research to discover new terroirs, the country’s wine-making industry has expanded into most of Argentina’s provinces.

Today, Argentina produces the best wines it has ever made, cementing its position as the world’s sixth largest producer, while occupying seventh place for per capita consumption (4.8 gallons [22 L] of wine per year, per inhabitant).

In recent years, several wineries (both boutique wineries and traditional ones) have highlighted some vine varieties that were less well-known among the general public. These included Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Tannat, Sangiovese, Barbera, Garnacha, Petit Verdot, and Albariño.

New market demands have seen Malbec’s prestigious reputation rub off on traditional grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay.

This constantly evolving industry has over 17,000 producers harvesting grapes destined for the over 900 wineries supplying both domestic and overseas markets. This has boosted regional economies and rekindled the country’s love affair with its national drink.

With the 21st century now well underway, the status of wine as one of Argentina’s great passions, and a proud ambassador for its culture, has been firmly entrenched. Wine features in paintings, poems, tangos, and literature, and is a faithful companion to those enjoying Argentina’s national epic poems.