It's What’s Inside That Counts: the History and Secrets of Matambre

The name matambre, derived from mata-hambre (hunger killer), sealed the fate of this rib meat that in the 19th century was considered to be a poor-quality cut. It was for this reason that it was usually given to slaughterhouse workers to complement their wages and satisfy their hunger after a day's work.

It can be cooked in a variety of ways: chargrilled, ember-roasted, cooked in a large Argentinian pan known as a disco, in a stew, or in a local version known as a la pizza, in which the pizza dough base is replaced with this cut of meat and topped with cheese and tomato. In Tucumán, it is used as a filling for the savory pies known as empanadas.

Both pork and beef matambre are considered classics of Argentinian barbecues. Lots of people marinade the meat beforehand in lemon, while others tenderize it in warm milk and aromatic herbs, so that it soaks up all the flavor and is soft and crisp after cooking.

Rolled matambre isn’t just made with beef; there are also versions using pork, chicken, or lamb. The marinade can include different herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and oregano.

First, the fat is removed and the meat is spread out with the outer part facing down. The filling is then spread over it. It is rolled and tied with a thick piece of string, from one end to the other. It is boiled for two hours in stock, and then left to stand when cooked through. It is then placed in the fridge for at least six hours.

It is served cold and cut into slices that are just under half an inch (1 cm) thick, usually with its trusty accompaniment of a Russian salad. It’s ideal for the Argentinian appetizer course known as a picada, or as a sliced ham-style sandwich with cheese or tomato.