Rituals of resistance

Dances that tell stories of fierce struggle with amazing masks. Such are the Mexican traditions of the tecuanes (Acatlán de Osorio, Puebla) and the tastoanes (Tonalá, Jalisco).

Grotesque Smile (2023-12-16) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Tecuanes of Acatlan de Osorio   

Tecuani means devourer, beast, or beast. The hunt of this animal, a jaguar predator of cattle, is an exciting legend that is recreated through the dance of the tecuanes in Acatlán de Osorio (Puebla) and other dances in municipalities in the same state, Oaxaca and Guerrero.

Mixtec Origins, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-14, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
The Elders Against the Jaguar, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-14, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
Show lessRead more

Tecuani (2023-12-16) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

The legendary beast   

The jaguar (also called tiger) attracts all eyes in this ritual. The thunderous sound of its chicote, a large whip made of ixtle, mixes with the sounds of the flute and drum.

Old Defenders, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2023-12-16, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
The Tecuanes Have Arrived, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-14, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
Apparition, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2023-12-16, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
Pride in Their Roots, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-14, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
Concentration, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2023-12-16, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
Whiplashes in the Rain, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2023-12-16, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
Show lessRead more

Flashes and Wooden Wrinkles (2024-12-14) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Cross accusations   

The story goes that the cattle of two neighboring tribes, one Chichimeca and the other Zapotec, were disappearing. Their leaders, old Lucas and old Moranchi, at first accused each other of theft. Dialogue led them to realize their mistake and identify the real threat.

Ferocity in Motion (2023-12-16) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

The struggle of two peoples for survival   

Old Lucas and Moranchi devise a way to catch the beast, they call all their sons to help them. They are the Tecuans and together they face this dangerous fight. The jaguar will claim several victims before it is caught, but eventually it will fall.

Confused Hubbub (2024-12-14) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

A great reunion party   

The key date for the tecuanes of Acatlán de Osorio is October 24. They celebrate their patron saint San Rafael and dozens of groups of dancers, many of them formed by acatecos who migrated and return that day, go through the town forming a tide of hundreds of sombreros.

Transforming into an Animal (2023-12-16) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Rehearsals throughout the year   

Groups such as the tecuanes Yuta Tixaa, in which the dancer and mascarero Chino Márquez participates, meet every weekend to rehearse the sones. Throughout the year they work to obtain resources to prepare their flashy costumes.

Bearded Giants (2023-12-16) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Passion for spreading their culture

They take the tradition to other parts of the country and the world thanks to migrants proud of this dance and the passion of people like Chino Márquez. They extend their legacy not only to the local children, but also to interested people from other nations.

Union of Two Peoples (2023-12-16) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Pride and legacy   

Emotion wells up when dancers like Chino Márquez try to explain that moment of transformation in the legendary characters. Leaving teachings in the generations that follow is their greatest satisfaction.

Watching the Enemy, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-13, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
Death First, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-13, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
Show lessRead more

Monstrous Warriors (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

¡Aixcaquema!
00:00

Tastoans of Tonalá: Until your death or mine

The cry “Aixcaquema!” -until your death or mine- is the most repeated in the dance of the Tastoanes of Tonalá (Jalisco). They revive the legendary battle of the native settlers against the dispossession and evangelization, in a dramatic ritual with origins in the 18th century.

Ferocity of the Guerrilla Fighter (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

With their own hands   

Each Tastoan makes his own mask by hand; it is a prerequisite for participation. Cowhide (cowhide), decorations of clay or other materials, cattle teeth and ixtle hair make up grotesque and unforgettable images.

The Art and the Artist (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Six decades creating   

J. Jesús Delgado Navarro was nine years old when he created his first mask and participated in this dance that he explains with passion: the face of the tastoan has marks of smallpox (disease of the colonizers) and local vermin to scare: snake, lizard, spider, scorpion.

Never Give Up (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Relentless confrontation   

The Tastoans interpret the fierce struggle against conquest and evangelization. At first they resist the violent attacks of Saint Santiago and manage to defeat him. They destroy and devour him, but he miraculously comes back to life to take revenge.

The Conflict of Evangelization (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

The queen of the warriors   

Cihualpilli Tzapotzintli, governor of Tonallan (present-day Tonalá) in the first encounter with the conquistadors, plays a key role. Although she finally adopted the Catholic faith, her cunning and bravery are recorded in the historical chronicles and are a source of pride.

The Conqueror’s Whiplashes, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-13, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
Ready to Fight, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-13, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
,
Mid-Leap, Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher), 2024-12-13, From the collection of: Colectivo Rokunin
Show lessRead more

Vanquished (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Dramatic defeat   

The dance closes with the warriors finally defeated by the Santo Santiago. The pain and shock of this outcome is palpable in the atmosphere. Willing to give their lives in order not to submit, the Tastoans defended their land and identity with courage.

Moved Audience (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin

Passionate transformation   

The final catharsis would be impossible without the emotion of each of the dancers. The hearts of the Tastoans beat like warriors and they feel that they are really fighting this life and death struggle. This is how J. Jesús Delgado explains it.

Credits: Story

Festival Nacional de Máscaras Danzantes 2024
Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México

Photography: Edson Ramos Luna, Moisés González.
Video and sound: Edson Ramos Luna, Moisés González, Festival Nacional de Máscaras Danzantes.
Text and edition: Teresa Morte.
Direction and coordination: Itzel Mendoza.

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.

Interested in Travel?

Get updates with your personalized Culture Weekly

You are all set!

Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.

Home
Discover
Play
Nearby
Favorites