Faith, legend, and delirium
Parachicos and clowns are two overwhelming expressions of homage to religious figures in Chiapa de Corzo (Chiapas) and Xico (Veracruz), in southeastern Mexico.
Wave of Monteras (2023-12-16) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
Dancing with the heart
Attending the parachicos' rituals is a thrilling experience: a torrent of monteras (hats) and chinchines (rattles) floods the streets with its rhythmic dance. Behind their colorful masks and costumes, the dancers are also vibrating. They say they dance with their hearts.
The Fiesta Grande features Parachicos, traditional dancers whose name encompasses both the performers and their energetic dance.
Patron and Guide (2024-12-15) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
Centuries-old heritage
Rubisel Gómez Nigenda is the breath of the reed flute, a spiritual and cultural leader, and the patron of the parachicos. He is the 20th patron documented since the 17th century, the last two from his family. His son, Tadeo Gómez Aguilar, proudly accompanies him on the drum.
The great January festivity
Tuxtla Gutiérrez (Chiapas) celebrates each year, from January 4 to 23, the Santo Niño de Atocha, the Lord of Esquipulas, Saint Anthony Abbot, and Saint Sebastian Martyr. The parachicos' ritual is the most emblematic manifestation of these festivities.
World heritage
In 2010, UNESCO included this rite in the lists of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The people of Chiapa de Corzo are responsible for preserving the immense wealth of knowledge and tradition encompassed in the dance of the parachicos.
Shedding One’s Skin (2024-12-15) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
From the cradle
It is essential for the tradition to be passed down to younger generations. There is even a special day reserved for the youngest parachicos: on January 4, during the celebration of Santo Niño de Atocha, the streets are filled with dancing boys and girls.
Harmony of Color (2024-12-15) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
Legendary origin
A child also is in the legend of the ritual’s origin. He was sick and unable to walk. His mother, from a wealthy family, arrived in Chiapa de Corzo seeking the town’s renowned healers and nearby hot springs. At the time, the town was suffering from drought and food scarcity.
Miracle and gratitude
She was advised to have faith and promised to give back in return for help. As days passed, the child began to improve. Overjoyed, she arranged for food to be brought to the town and distributed it alongside her son, who was carried high above the crowd.
Joy for the boy (para el chico)
This event gave rise to the characters of the January Festivity. Among them, those who sought to entertain the child who had brought prosperity: they danced and performed tricks for him (para el chico). For centuries, the parachicos have filled the town with joy.
Parades of Enthusiasm (2024-12-15) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
A living legend
Today, their dance is a prayer, a gesture of gratitude, and an offering to the saints and religious figures. "The legend is alive today and has given life and social and economic cohesion to the town of Chiapa de Corzo," explains the patron of the parachicos, Rubisel Gómez.
Vibrant Spectacle (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
Clowns of Xico: exaltation of faith
Every July, the town of Xico (Veracruz) honors its patron saint, Saint Mary Magdalene, with an incomparable explosion of colors and sounds. The clown dances are an essential part of this ecstatic expression of faith-driven joy.
Festive stridency
Their dazzlingly colorful costumes, featuring impossible combinations and patterns, are made with up to 15 meters of fabric. They ripple through the streets to the rhythms of traditional sones, loudly shaking their castanets and rattles and shouting with thunderous laughter.
From spontaneous to indispensable
Since the 19th century, clowns spontaneously joined other traditional dances in Xico. Several decades ago, some enthusiasts organized the first group composed exclusively of these characters. Today, the clown dance is the largest and a symbol of the town’s identity.
Devotional Offerings (2023-12-17) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
Profound devotion
Saint Mary Magdalene is depicted on many of the dancers' bonnets (pointed hats). Bringing joy to those who watch them is, for them, an act of faith: they offer hours and hours of uninterrupted dancing to the patron saint as a promise, a petition, or a token of gratitude.
Shouts of Joy (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
Covered identity
Completely covering their faces with the bonnet, mask, scarves, and bandanas is of great importance. Concealing their identity behind that of the clown for the entire time is part of their religious offering.
Order and command
The figure of the Negro Separado, originally from the crossed-band dances, joins the clown groups as an elegant figure of order. He sets the pace and coordinates with the captains to organize the dancers. The clowns’ exuberance requires discipline and respect.
Family commitment
Many people from Xico become clowns each July because their parents took them dancing as children. Today, they ensure that the tradition continues with the next generation. Rehearsals to practice each of the more than 50 sones begin months in advance.
Celebration of Their Faith (2024-12-13) by Edson Ramos Luna (photogapher)Colectivo Rokunin
Half a life in the cuadrilla
Cristóbal Montemira and Carlos Julián Colorado are dancers in the Macehuani clown cuadrilla (troupe). They have spent half their lives transforming to honor their patroness. They proudly explain that this tradition exists thanks to the effort and initiative of many people.
Festival Nacional de Máscaras Danzantes 2024
Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México
Photography: Edson Ramos Luna, Moisés González.
Video and sound: Edson Ramos Luna, Moisés González, Festival Nacional de Máscaras Danzantes.
Text and Editing: Teresa Morte.
Direction and coordination: Itzel Mendoza.
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