Occasionally, the word "oyama” (meaning “mountain”) appears when talking to Tsuruoka residents. Oyama refers to “Dewa Sanzan,” which consists of Mt. Gassan, Mt. Yudonosan and Mt. Hagurosan that can be thoroughly seen from within Tsuruoka City. These three mountains are familiar to the locals as large beings that always protect them from the same spot, and receive many shrine visitors every year as a sacred place that still conveys Japan’s ancient tradition of worshiping the mountains.
Yamabushi training "Aki no Mineiri (Autumn Training)" and Sanjin Gosaiden (2019)TSURUOKA, UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy
At Dewa Sanzan, there is a 100-day seclusion training that is held for only two chosen people every year. This training program involves praying for peace and the happy livelihood of everyone in the region, the country and the world by praying in front of seeds of grains everyday for peace throughout the land, homeland security, abundance in harvests, elimination of epidemics, etc., and sowing these seeds of grains and rice on day 100, which falls on New Year’s Eve, at the “Shorei Festival.” Such tradition of “praying to a food” is deep-rooted and still remains at Dewa Sanzan.
Mountain asceticism: experience the precisouness of life
Since the ancient times, Dewa Sanzan has been referred to as the “mountain of reincarnation,” and it’s been said that the residents experience blessings during the current life at Mt. Hagurosan, the afterlife at Mt. Gassan, and receive new life at Mt. Yudonosan. The traditional mountain asceticism practice is characterized by the experience of pseudo-death and rebirth. This concept of life, death, and endless cycle of rebirth can also be felt while walking from the Dewa Shrine in Mt. Hagurosan to the “Sanjingosaiden Shrine," which enshrines the gods of the three mountains.
The approach to the HagurosanTSURUOKA, UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy
There's a shrine in each mountain. But since the shrines at Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudonosan close during winter due to high elevation, the Dewa Shrine at the top of Mt. Hagurosan consists of the “Sanjingosaiden Shrine,” which honors the gods of the three mountains together. Nowadays, you can get there by driving through a toll road, but you can also take the traditional path by walking from the Dewa Shrine.
As you go through the Zuijin Gate of Dewa Shrine, you will start climbing down an endless steep stairs. This resembles the process of dying and temporarily falling to hell. After a while, you’ll pass through the Harai River, which represents the Styx that flows between the present life and afterlife, where visitors can purify themselves before heading to the top of Mt. Hagurosan.
Mt. Hagurosan, Shin-kyo Bridge over Haraigawa RiverTSURUOKA, UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy
Five-Story Pagoda of Mt. Haguro and Jiji-sugi (Grandpa Cedar") (2019)TSURUOKA, UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy
The path from the Zuijin Gate to the top of Mt. Hagurosan consists of 2446 stone steps that span roughly 1700 meters, which took 13 years to build in the Edo period. After passing through the cryptomeria forest that’s said to be several hundred years old, and climbing the long and strenuous stone steps for about an hour, you will see the dramatic sight of a gigantic shrine with a thick thatched roof that’s 2.1 meters thick.
The epitome of walking the path to the “Sanjingosaiden Shrine” is to experience a pseudo death from entering the gate, feel grateful to your family and those who took care of you in the past, and experience the process of rebirth. The special rendition for experiencing reincarnation and rebirth along the way is very interesting. This concept of “reincarnation” involves treating all life forms including plants and animals as precious, so that we can link our efforts to the future generations. This idea is also connected to the prayers in the 100-day training of praying for abundant harvests.
*1 - There's a shrine in each mountain. But since the shrines at Mt. Gassan and Mt. Yudonosan close during winter due to high elevation, the Dewa Shrine at the top of Mt. Hagurosan consists of the “Sanjingosaiden Shrine,” which honors the gods of the three mountains together. Nowadays, you can get there by driving through a toll road, but you can also take the traditional path by walking from the Dewa Shrine.
Learning gratitude through spiritual practice
The mountain asceticism training program is held once a year by calling for participants nationwide, including both men and women. This training also begins by experiencing a simulated death. They then go through a rebirth ceremony, and experience a rebirth growth process by spending the same amount of time in the mountain as the time you spend inside your mother’s womb.
The details of this mountain asceticism practice are top secret. What they do during the training has never been publicized. What we do know, however, is that every trainee always says, “I realized how blessed we were for the things that we take granted for daily.” One of the realizations was regarding food. They only eat twice a day (once in the morning and evening) during the training. It consists of a simple meal of rice, miso soup and two pieces of pickled vegetables. By being able to become fully satisfied with this simplest meal plan after completing hard physical training routines throughout the mountain, they realize how extravagant we live on a daily basis.
The benefits of the mountain asceticism practice, which has been released for general public to participate in, may be the realization of how blessed we are for things we take for granted, which is gained by facing the concept of life and death head on, and resetting your various senses by spending many days with only a limited amount of food to survive. After re-confirming the blessings of the vegetables we regularly eat, and the significance of each grain of rice, we begin to physically experience the true meaning of worldwide abundance in harvests that Dewa Sanzan is praying for.
Cooperation with:
Saikan Haguroyama-Sanrosho Ryokan
Photos: Misa Nakagaki
Tsuruoka City
Text: Orika Uchiumi
Edit: Saori Hayashida
Production: Skyrocket Corporation
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