The Reinvention of Pizza in the Americas

The story of Argentinian pizza began with the country’s first Italian immigrants; part of a wave of two million Italians who came to Argentina between 1881 and 1920. They shaped a thin dough into a circle, adding onion, garlic, and oil, just as they did back at home.

The Argentinian invention pizza canchera bears a strong resemblance to this original pizza, with tomato sauce, olives, and spices. These pizzas were traditionally sold in soccer stadiums and from street stalls.

From the 1920s onward, pizzas became ever more popular, eventually becoming a mainstay of Argentina’s national gastronomy. Since then, endless quantities of pizza dough have passed through the hands of millions, leading to the development of a unique national version. 

Argentina came up with its own pizza recipe, based on a spongy dough known as media masa (half-dough) or al molde (in the pan). The dough is baked in an oven (gas or wood-fired), having first been spread with a well-seasoned sauce and a generous helping of mozzarella.

Large numbers of Genoese families settled in the Buenos Aires neighborhood of La Boca, and it was in this part of town that the fugazzetta originated. The invention of this local recipe is associated with the pizzeria Banchero and involves layers of dough topped with mozzarella and onion.

Another variety, also based on this basic blueprint, is the ham and bell pepper pizza. Over the intervening century and a half, more ingredients were added to pizzas, from fresh tomatoes and longaniza sausage to pineapple and rocket, with each variation attracting its own fans and detractors.

Originally sold as a street food by immigrants trying to earn a living, in the 1930s, as the urban population began to grow, pizzerias started to appear in town centers and local neighborhoods. 

Going out for pizza became an affordable ritual that could be enjoyed by all social classes. They were eaten as a family meal, by friends eating out, as lunch for laborers and office workers, as a meal on the go, or for a mid-afternoon snack to satisfy a sudden craving for a filling treat.

Pizzerias became a central part of the bohemian culture that developed in larger cities. Some of them have adorned the walls of their dining rooms with photos and souvenirs, proud to have hosted famous musicians, soccer players, artists, comedians, and writers.

In the 1980s, pizza—as well as empanadas, which are savory Argentinian pies—found a new outlet. Full venues, with long queues and the constant hustle and bustle of locals in the dining rooms of restaurants, led to the trend for home delivery.

One of the great Argentinian contributions to the world of pizza was its pairing with fainá. Brought to Argentina by Genoese immigrants, it is a recipe based on gram flour, oil, salt, and pepper. 

The combination of pizza and fainá in a single dish is unique to Argentina; specifically, Buenos Aires. The same is true of the pairing of pizza and Muscatel (wine made from Muscat grapes).

In the 21st century, Argentinian pizza is experiencing a revolution that is taking it to a new dimension. In the meantime, the Neapolitan pizza has arrived in its original format: thin, flexible, and topped with fior di latte mozzarella; as have Roman pizzas and New York pizzas.

Vegan pizzas are flourishing, as are those made with sourdough, certified organic flours, long fermentation processes, and an artisan outlook, while still maintaining the essence of a traditional pizza.

Passion for pizza goes beyond the limits of Buenos Aires. Over the past 130 years, Argentina’s provinces and large cities have put their own stamp on pizza, continuing the tradition of this ever-evolving, oven-cooked favorite.