Attire of Royal Court Women

'Wonsam(圓衫)' was a ceremonial robe worn by the queen dowager, royal concubines, and members of the inner court, which had a shorter front than back and wide sleeves with open sides. The color and shape of the robe differed according to the position of the wearer: yellow for the empress, red for the queen, purple for the crown princess, and green for the princess. 

Hair ornaments included hairpins, quivering pins, and back pins. Their name differed according to their material or shape: jade pin (Bichwijam), coral hairpin (Sanhojam), pearl hairpin (Jinjujam), phoenix hairpin (Bong jam), dragon hairpin (Yong jam), plum and bamboo hairpin(Maejukjam), bamboo hairpin (Jukjam), bamboo piece hairpin (Jukjeoljam), flower petal hairpin (Hwayeopjam), orchid hairpin (Garanjam), magnolia hairpin (Mokryeonjam), walnut hairpin (Hodojam, 胡桃簪), large phoenix hairpin (Deabongjam), pomegranate hairpin (Seokryujam), and stake hairpin (Malttukjam), among others. Hairpin materials included silver, gold-plating, nickel, brass, jade, coral, pearl, wood, bone, and glass. 

Pendants called 'Norigae' are traditional decorations hung on the waistband of the skirt to be shown below the jacket. Originally, these were restricted to queens, royal concubines, princesses, wives of princes, and the literati. Chief ladies-in-waiting could also wear them on their ceremonial robes during national events such as the royal wedding. Ladies-in-waiting wore them only once, on the day of their “Coming of Age Ceremony.” In late Joseon, their use expanded to not only the upper class but also to commoners, who wore them at important family festivities. 

Pouches were worn by men and women of all ages to hold items inside their clothing. Although small, they were carefully made and considered precious wedding gifts of the royal family. Pouches were also granted as presents to the royal kindred and ministers on the first pig day(Haeil, 亥日) and mouse day(Jail, 子日) of the New Year.  Purses had either angular or round corners depending on their shape, and were either stamped or embroidered with gold. The outer fabric was usually red, blue, plum, azure, or green silk embroidered with the ten symbols of longevity, a basket with five blessing flowers, or the Chinese characters “Subok(壽福)” (long life and blessings). All kinds of gold and silver crafts were also adhered. They were produced collaboratively among several separate specialty rooms within the palace. The sewing room sewed the pouches, which were then handed off to the embroidery room for the embroidery of patterns, and finally completed at the knotting room where artisans added the strings and knots.