Chocolate in New Spain
In the Spanish-speaking Mexico, a new culture was created around chocolate that led to the creation of pieces made exclusively for consumption and delight.
Coco chocolatero by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
Chocolate was the most widely consumed drink and enjoyed by the society of New Spain.
Coco chocolatero by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
A whole paraphernalia was created around its preparation and consumption.
Several of the pre-Hispanic uses around chocolate continued to exist in New Spain, such as drinking it with water, perfumed with spices and in gourds.
Coco chocolatero by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
However, the viceroyalty culture made new contributions such as adding sugar and milk to it.
Coco chocolatero by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
In addition, among the families of the New Spain aristocracy, it was customary to serve it in chocolate coconuts.
Coco chocolatero by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
These were made from a natural nut or coconut seed, which was carved with different decorations, such as grooves, geometric and vegetable motifs.
Coco chocolatero (1700) by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
Silver handles and bases were added to the seed, which could evoke vines, trails, flowers and acanthus leaves, or even allude to architectural inspiration motifs.
Coco chocolatero (1700) by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
These silver applications gave elegance and richness to the coconuts.
Coco chocolatero by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
Mancerina (1800) by José María MartínezMuseo Franz Mayer
During parties, it was commonplace to arrange chocolate coconuts on mancerinas.
Mancerina (1800) by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
These were fine porcelain or silver saucers that have a central clamp to attach to the coconut or small cup of chocolate.
Mancerina (1800) by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
The rest of the surface was used to arrange sweets and cakes to accompany the drink.
Mancerina con salvilla y taza (1700) by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
The mancerinas owe their name to Pedro Álvarez de Toledo y Leyva, Marquis de Mancera, who was viceroy of Peru between 1639 and 1648.
Mancerina (1700) by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
The invention of these ingenious pieces is attributed to him.
Petaca by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
In the palaces of New Spain it was common for people, especially ladies, to drink chocolate during the afternoons. To do this, they gathered on the rooftops of their houses, which functioned as gardens: in them they placed potted plants and cages with birds.
Petaca (1700) by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
In the corners of the palaces there were turrets that served as a protection against the evening sun and thus they could enjoy the chocolate and the view of the cities.
In addition, in order to take the necessary supplies to the field or when traveling to prepare this drink, chocolate boxes were made.
Petaca by Autor desconocidoMuseo Franz Mayer
These were made of a flexible wooden structure, such as reed, and were lined with leather and were adorned with rich embroidery and iron appliances.
Inside, the space was divided into sections so that there was room for the mancerinas, coconuts and chocolate containers, and they could travel safely.
On this tour of these ancient pieces we see the value that Mexican society has given to the consumption of chocolate since the time of the viceroyalty until today. Cocoa in its multiple forms is a reflection of how Mexican gastronomic culture incorporates gifts from the world into the riches of the land itself.
