Black Fashion Models by Yale JoelLIFE Photo Collection
In hip-hop, it’s not just what you say to be heard, it’s what you wear to be seen. The music makes the fans like you, your image locks everything together and makes your followers want to be like you. Fashion is an integral part of hip-hop culture.
East Bronx Politics (1952-10) by Cornell CapaLIFE Photo Collection
As hip-hop was being birthed in the 1970s, the clothing reflected where the kids in the culture were at the time. These were young Black teens from the neighbourhood. The fans rocked what was affordable.
Roller skate | key:Puma Roller Skates (2000) by PumaThe Strong National Museum of Play
The fans rocked what was affordable. It was the cloth of the streets; tracksuits, Pumas, Chuck Taylors (Chucks have remained timeless), jeans. Jewellery was a luxury few attained. It wasn’t how much you spent, it was how you rocked what you had.
L'Il Kim (2000-06-27) by Marion CurtisLIFE Photo Collection
As the money started to come in for the artists, you saw them investing in their showmanship. They wore these grandiose costumes.
"The Message" (1982) by Grandmaster Flash & the Furious FiveRock & Roll Hall of Fame
You look at artists such as Grandmaster Flash and the Furious Five and The Cold Crush Brothers, you see that clothing wise, they started pulling from influences from the Punk Rock scene, the Disco scene and combined it combined it what was fresh in the hood.
LL COOL JRock & Roll Hall of Fame
The MCs and DJs rocked a lot of leather suits (going for as upwards $1000, some had tassels too), leather gloves, knee high boots, cowboy hats and Kangols.
In the 80s, the streets started dictating what the artists wore.
“As it started to transition from the 70s into the 80, that ‘Warrior’ look started transitioning into the B-Boy look and the fly girls,” says fashion guru, designer and famed stylist Mike B.
Among his clients, Mike boasts the likes of Notorious B.I.G., Diddy and Ludacris. “The B-Boy look was actually cooler. Breakdancing was big. You wore the nylon jackets to breakdance, it was easier to spin on your back in..."
LIFE Photo Collection
The new generation of rappers were void of over-the-top ensembles. Kangols were still heavy, so were rope chains. Literally. Every rapper had to rock a huge gold chain which they called a “dookie rope.”
LIFE Photo Collection
Michael Jordan came to the NBA in 1984 and his sneakers have been must haves for everybody in the hood ever since.
By Marion CurtisLIFE Photo Collection
The Jordan Brand still remains at the top today with hip-hop luminaries such as Drake, Eminem, DJ Khaled and Travis Scott as brand ambassadors and spokesmen. In the 80s, Adidas were just as popular thanks to Run-DMC’s rapping about them and wearing them.
Brands started to notice that hip-hop was marketable
...and having rappers endorse their products was lucrative.
By Ralph MorseLIFE Photo Collection
Legendary designer Dapper Dan, had a shop in Harlem, NY where he would make custom high end suits for his clientele which included New York’s biggest drug dealers from all the five boroughs, as well as superstars such as Mike Tyson, Big Daddy Kane, LL Cool J, Rakim and more.
Gucci satchel bag, canvas, leather, and gold metal, c. 1980, Italy, gift of Orli SpanierThe Museum at FIT
Decades later, Gucci would officially hire Dan to be a brand ambassador and work with them on new designs, which he does now.
By Dave AlloccaLIFE Photo Collection
In the 90s, the high end fashion houses got major love from hip-hop as the culture continued to grow. It was the dawn of the Dons. Biggie, Jay-Z, Foxy Brown, Puff Daddy were all at the forefront of decadence, and fans buying Versace by rapping about it and sporting it in videos.
Harlem (1938) by Hansel MiethLIFE Photo Collection
Early in the decades, cats had two finger rings and name plate belts. Around the way girls wore door knocker earrings and bamboo earrings. Later on, gold jewellery was replaced by platinum and diamonds. The streets continued to be the dictators.
Shakur, Tupac (1995)LIFE Photo Collection
In the 90s, simplistic styles and street looks reigned supreme. Tupac rocked $4.00 bandanas around his bald head and they became iconic. Baggy jeans (everything got baggier for a while as the years progressed), Timbalands in New York, and Starter jackets around the country.
Rhymes, Busta (2000)LIFE Photo Collection
Unique styles won as well. MCs known for wearing custom made one of one outfits such as Busta Rhymes, Andre 3000 and Missy Elliott grew to be icons.
Karl Kani vest, cotton and wool, 1990s, USA, gift of Antonio GrayThe Museum at FIT
Deservedly, Black designers cashed in on hip-hop fashion as well. Walker Wear, FUBU, Karl Kani and others made millions as rappers and singers wore their gear. Rappers Fat Joe, The Wu-Tang and rap mogul Russell Simmons raked cake as well with their lines.
By Sylvain GabouryLIFE Photo Collection
“The 80s and 90s, we're big eras for individuality,” Mike B, who has his own line called BOGARD assesses. "In the 90's you started seeing the different styles developed through the different markets..."
Ice CubeLIFE Photo Collection
"The 2 Live Crew, they were representing Miami with all the sports [wear] from Miami. The Miami Hurricane football jerseys or the Satin starter jackets, the snapback caps. Then going to LA, Ice Cube was rocking all black with the Los Angeles Kings and black Carhart denim coat."
Andre 3000 by Cam Kirk and Cam Kirk StudiosBottom of the Map Podcast
"When it gets to Atlanta and Detroit, it starts to get a little bit more abstract. Andre and Big Boi were a bit more eclectic centric. More funkadelic. I would say that part of hip-hop was also influenced by the pimps and the Gs and the player player types.” – Mike B.
Sean Puffy Combs (1998-04-06) by Mirek TowskiLIFE Photo Collection
In the 2000s, we saw rappers such as Puffy, Jay-Z, 50 Cent, T.I. and Pharrell Williams, generate hundreds of millions with their own clothing labels. Kanye and Rihanna took it the farthest years later becoming Billionaires.
Rihanna & Jack NYC Rumble Ball (2015)Ballroom Throwbacks/Destination Tomorrow
Kanye with his sneakers and apparel Rihanna with her clothes and beauty products. Today, many artists also earn a tremendous amount of wealth off their merchandise apparel. You can make more money selling T-shirts than you can albums.
L'Il Kim (1999-09-09) by Dave AlloccaLIFE Photo Collection
You want to reminisce on some of the flyest hip-hop fashion styles over the decades and continue celebrating Hip Hop? Listen to the “Fashion Killa Anthems” or continue exploring at [Hip Hop at 50 page].
