Volcanic town of Veracruz (2020-12-02) by Mark Quijano (illustrator) and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
El Cerro de las Trojes
The word Coscomatepec comes from the words Cuescomatl, which means granary, pot or wooden box made to hold seeds. The other word is Tépetl, meaning hill. In other words, Coscomatepec means mountain for storing seeds.
Coscomatepec is a magical town embraced and protected by the high mountains of Veracruz, at the foot of the highest volcano in Mexico, the Pico de Orizaba. The genius of its typical dishes can be enjoyed in a wide variety of moles, pipianes, tlatoniles, barbacoa blanca, tamales, breads and a multitude of sweets.
Conical shapes (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The coconut y las panelitas
The most popular sweet here are cocadas or panelas. This is due to the enormous amount of coconut palms that grow on the coasts of Mexico and the Caribbean.
The panelitas of Cocomatepec are similar to piloncillo for their shape and color, and because they are made in a wooden mold. As for their flavor, the exquisite sweetness of panelitas is nothing like that of piloncillo, even though both are artisanally made Mexican delights.
Grated coconut (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Piloncillo
Piloncillo is not only physically similar to the panelita, but it is also a main ingredient of this exquisite coconut dessert. Piloncillo or "chancaca" is a word derived from the Nahuatl word chiancaca, which means "brown sugar."
Magic stove (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Like all the best things of our cuisine, the origin of the panelitas dates back to the pre-Hispanic era. In those times, sweets were cooked in a very thick, sweet and dark maguey honey, which over time was replaced by piloncillo.
Mold filling (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Panela (2020-12-02) by Gabriela Lavalle (photographer), Emmanuel Perez Sol (Editor), and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
The sweets of the New World were mostly created in the convents and, like many dishes, were modified with the local ingredients.
Irene, the guardian
The guardian of this treasure is Ms. Irene Huerta, a native of Coscomatepec and the owner of the recipe, which she inherited from her mother. It has been passed down from generation to generation.
The instructions have traveled through time and space: the coconut is peeled and shredded. On the side, the milk is prepared with brown sugar. In the anafre, the copper pot is placed over a wood fire to mix the ingredients. After the milk has evaporated, the batter is poured into the mold.
The highest mountain in Mexico (2019-10-01) by Alfredo Morán (photographer) and Itzel Mendoza (editor)Colectivo Rokunin
Final Outcome
They're not popular just for their delicious and heavenly flavor; their texture is also incredible. So enjoy some panelitas!
Project Gastronomía - Colectivo Rokunin 2020
Panelitas, Coscomatepec, Veracruz, México.
Text: Itzel Mendoza
Editing: César Hernández y Alejandra Mendoza
Design: Roberto González y Alejandra Mendoza
Artwork: Mark Quijano
Photos: Gabriela Lavalle y Alfredo Morán
Licence: CC BY-NC-ND 4.0.
Thanks to: H. Ayuntamiento de Coscomatepec, Veracruz.
